Book Review: Crawfish Bottom

Here, brothels were commonplace for generations. Here, alcohol flowed freely before, after and during prohibition. Here, crime was inherent and living conditions deplorable.

And it was all in the shadow of the old state Capitol.

Douglas Boyd explored the lost community of Crawfish Bottom in his book, Crawfish Bottom: Recovering a Lost Kentucky Community. It is now available in paperback from the University Press of Kentucky.

Since the Commonwealth’s earliest days, Frankfort has been our capital. Seated on the Kentucky River, the community had a history interwoven with the river. Lumber would be transported by water with the mountaineers accompanying it. Receiving their pay in Frankfort, these men might be interested in partaking of the local flavor.

And as the state capital was home to the state penitentiary, felons upon release might seek the pleasures they were unable to access from the cell block.

It was entirely natural, then, that a seedy area would develop in Frankfort. Its proximity to the river (adjacent to and partially in a flood plain, as evidenced by the regular flooding) created a natural fit for the area which was generally viewed as being to the west and north of the old state Capitol.

Professor Boyd examined this swampy land through the eyes and voice of her people utilizing and relying to a great degree on oral histories prepared in 1991 by a University of Kentucky master’s degree candidate. Through Boyd’s expert pen and insight, a history of the people who lived in the Craw is told.

For those who lived in this area, it represented a great deal more than the prostitution and crime that occurred here. It was a community with churches and schools and stores and commerce. Race was less divisive than elsewhere in the capital city as residents were “more unified … by their socioeconomic condition … than they were divided by their race. Blacks and whites lived together [and] everybody looked out after each other.”

And so “for the overwhelming majority of residents interviewed, … the Bottom was a safe place for them and their families to live.”

Boyd drew on the memory and nostalgia of displaced residents to approach the concept of urban renewal from their perspective. Nostalgia “is a feeling or expression of longing, in the present, for a more positively associated place or time imagined in the past, a phenomenon that introduces” outside distortion, yet is now accepted as being “critical to understanding embedded meaning in historical interpretation.”

Whether or not the methodology historical recordation is deemed appropriate, Boyd’s use of nostalgia draws readers to a deeper understanding of the daily lives of this locality.

And after all, as Charles Joyner wrote, “all history is local history somewhere … still, no history, properly understood, is of merely local significance.” Yes, the reach of the Craw extended beyond its mere fifty acres.

Long were attempts to rid Frankfort of Crawfish Bottom and the urban renewal effort finally struck a final blow to the entire neighborhood in the 1960s when space was made for the new state office tower and plaza. Ridding Frankfort of its “slums” was deemed a positive, despite whatever sense of community was lost.

The area is a microcosm for the efforts to alter the nation’s urban cores — efforts which began in earnest during the middle portion of the last century and continue today.

Boyd’s book received great accolades in hardcover and readership should increase now that it is accessible in paperback among those interested in virtually any of the social sciences.


Disclaimer: The University Press of Kentucky provided the author with a courtesy review copy of the book here reviewed. The amazon.com link to the reviewed book is part of an affiliate agreement between the author and amazon.com.

Beautiful Architecture and Rich History of Transylvania Revealed from Simple Marker

Marker affixed to a Stone at Gratz Park – Lexington, Ky.

In the lawn of Gratz Park, the children of James Lane Allen play while nearby a memorial plaque honors:

Transylvania
Pioneer College of the West
Founded by Legislature of Virginia – 1780
Moved to this Site – 1793
Erected by Bryan Station Chapter N.S.D.A.R. – 1931
To the uninitiated, the marker may seem out of place surrounded by the historic homes of Gratz Park while the stately Morrison Hall of Transylvania serves as the icon of the school that spreads north from Third Street. But it is here in Gratz Park that Transylvania flourished and with it the seat of knowledge that made Lexington the Athens of the West. 
The Main Building of Transylvania was “the crowning architectural jewel of this square.” It was designed by architect Matthew Kennedy and evidence of its style appears on an “elevation and first-floor plan rendering for the project, signed and dated ’18th April 1816′.”
Of the Main Building, Clay Lancaster wrote in in his Vestiges of the Venerable City,

a building with a wide pedimented central motif, with the first story given a basement treatment and te second and third stories laced by four engaged columns and two pilasters. Lower openings are arched, and a host of chimneys rises from the long, plain roof with end gable. … Its center pavilion was pedimented, it contained a fan window in the tympanum, a balustrade surmounted the cornice to the hipped roof elsewhere, and an elaborate cupola climaxed the composition. The topmost elements – the lantern with its colonnettes, finial urns, and bulbous roof and vane, and the balustrade – were Georgian Baroque in the manner of Sir Christopher Wren and considerably more old-fashioned than the Classic deliniation would have been; but together they comprised a more pleading form.

Restoration sketch of Gratz Park by Clay Lancaster, Vestiges of the Venerable City.

A fire in May of 1829 marked the end of the Main Building and only its east dependency (a supporting structure) remains today as it serves as the home of the Blue Grass Trust. When Transylvania was reconstituted and the work of the school continued, it did so on the north side of Third Street with construction of Old Morrison beginning in 1831.

Our marker also suggests and earlier home for Transylvania with it having been formed in 1780 by the Virginia Legislature and moving to the site thirteen years later. As has been noted here before, the Transylvania Academy was first established in Danville. One of its first Transy trustees was Willis Green, whose Danville home is a historic gem currently for sale by a consortium of preservation-minded organizations.

A lot of history hidden on that little marker affixed to a stone in Gratz Park…

This Just Happened, a weekly roundup

From the Kaintuckeean:

And from elsewhere around the Commonwealth:


New bike lanes on Lexington’s Red Mile Road [UK Presser]

Tour Bourbon County’s Airy Castle Today [WTVQ]

Photos from unveiling of ‘Cherokees in Kentucky’ historic marker in Lincoln County [Herald-Leader]

Historic Jessamine Co. Courthouse receives Energy Star certification [Jessamine Journal]

Keene Springs Inn enjoys rich history

Keene Springs Inn – Keene, Ky.

The restaurant operated by Debbie Wheeler in the old Keene Springs Inn was recently profiled in the Jessamine Journal. And while my mouth watered for some of Wheeler’s fried chicken and green beans, I thought more of the history behind this grand locale.

By 1794, Manoah Singleton had established a grist mill near the crossing of a buffalo trace known as Shawnee Run Road and the Cave Spring Fork of Clear Creek.

At that time, Shawnee Run Road was considered the most direct route between Lexington and Harrodsburg; it is now known in the county as Keene-Troy Pike.

The community of Keene was laid out in 1813, though it was known first as Liberty. Patriotic fervor in the first decades of the 19th century created a laundry list of communities bearing that name. The result was confusion.

The original and extant Liberty, Ky., is the seat of Casey County. It was founded in 1806.

When Jessamine County laid out its Liberty, it must have soon become apparent that Casey County already had a town bearing the name so the people here renamed their community North Liberty.

Quite appropriate given the geographic bearings of Jessamine and Casey counties.

But along came those in Pike County who in 1822 debated whether their seat should be Piketon, now known as Pikeville, or Liberty.

As the debate raged in Pike County, those in Morgan County thought ‘Liberty’ would be a fitting name for a city.

Those in Morgan County believed Pike Countians would use Liberty, so they established West Liberty which remains the county seat. Pike County opted for Piketon and the end result was a geographic conundrum.

The town of West Liberty (located in Morgan County) lies approximately 100 miles east of Liberty (located in Casey County).

Fortunately, Jessamine County stayed out of the fray. So much so that when a post office was to be established in North Liberty in 1830, we got out of the ‘Liberty’ business altogether. Postmaster Ephraim Carter named his new post office after his hometown of Keene, N.H.

The state legislature authorized Keene’s incorporation in 1844. Four years later, white sulphur water was discovered in the nearby springs.

Of the water, the dean of Transylvania Medical College, Dr. Robert Peter, said it was “incomparably the best medical water on this continent … eminently adapted to the cure of every species of Indigestion, Liver Complaint, Scrofula, Cutaneous Affections, Mercurial Disease, a variety of nervous diseases and nearly all diseases that are usually denominated chronic.”

It is no wonder, then, that when the cholera epidemic hit Lexington in 1849 that those able to flee the city did so. And they came to and stayed at the Keene Springs Hotel.

Wrote Bennett H. Young in his 1898 History of Jessamine County, Kentucky, “during the prevalence of cholera, in Lexington, about this time, a large number of people came to Keene and lived during the panic, occasioned by this disease in Lexington and surrounding towns” staying in “a very nice hotel.”

A very nice hotel indeed. In fact, it was owned by Mason Singleton who was the grandson of the pioneer who first settled the community.

Popularity for the hotel, however, declined and Singleton was forced to sell by 1857. It was purchased by Alfred McTyre who operated the facility for a decade before selling it to Fielding S. Wilson in 1868.

And for 145 years, the historic property has remained in the hands of the Wilson family.

This column originally appeared in the Jessamine Journal
It should not be republished without permission.

A Motor Lodge in Lexington #TBT

The “Motor Lodge” or “Motor Court” was a common site on America’s highways and byways decades ago as small numbers of lodgers would find comfort for the night.

In fact, Col. Sanders operated such a site in Corbin. The fried chicken served in the cafe at his motor court became the basis, of course, Kentucky Fried Chicken.

A number of such lodges or courts were in Lexington, including the one above. Though the building was torn down in favor or a larger sense of lodging, you may recognize its location?

Share your thoughts in the comments!

Livingston is a Trail Town … and it Can’t Hide the Pride

Marker at the old Livingston School which is being converted into a Visitor’s Center
after being closed nearly twenty years.

On one of my first jaunts, I visited the small Rockcastle County community of Livingston. Soon after, I found an article that validated my findings of Livingston as a once-vibrant, but long forgotten community. 

But Livingston has no hotel, no drug store or bank or any of these sundry establishments. There was a time when all these and more were present. Not one, but four hotels and numerous boarding houses catered to temporary residents. Not one, but two doctors tended human frailty. All that remain now are ghosts, faint echoes of a once-prosperous past when Livingston was a busy and exciting place to live. Livingston’s Main Street, at the heart of the town, is a place of padlocked doors and boarded windows, of burned and sagging buildings, of broken glass and rotting timbers and unswept dust. (Focus, Winter 1999)

It was a sad indictment, yet even then there remained both a marker and a sense that Livingston “Can’t Hide the Pride.” So I returned last month to find a completely different place, except one thing had not changed at all. The Pride. It is almost as if the people of Livingston sought to fulfill my hope from September 2009, that “this community will again one day have a source of pride.”

As it turns out, Livingston has become its own Phoenix. On June 25 of this year, Livingston was designated the second Trail Town in Kentucky. This designation marks a major milestone for any small community.

The Livingston School (top) is being converted into a Visitor’s Center (middle),
while new opportunities are opening up throughout town (bottom).

Earlier in the year, my brother and I traveled by bicycle along a portion of the Great Allegheny Passage in southwestern Pennsylvania. There, strong industry used to keep employment high. But that industry vanished famished long ago. Yet through a committed citizenry and a group of elected officials with a forward looking vision, small communities have been reborn through increases in adventure tourism. Cyclists, mountain bikers, rafters, tubers, and kayakers all abound. These tourists also stay in locally-owned bed and breakfasts and hotels and eat at locally-owned diners and restaurants. It brings vitality and outside dollars into a small town, rather than seeing money only as an export.

And now, Livingston can share in this success. The old Graded School is being or has been converted into the new permanent trailhead. Along the S. Wilderness Rd. one can find directions to a canoe launch, the Wilderness Road Trail, and the Sheltowee Trace Trail. I could not be happier for Livingston.

The trailhead at Livingston

I pray that Livingston thrives on its new designation; if you haven’t been, go!

And the story of Livingston is a story that can be and should be told over and over again throughout Kentucky. The tourism dollars that flow into Kentucky represent a new form of industry that Kentucky has long allowed to go elsewhere.

The beauty of Eastern Kentucky could easily be a tourist’s paradise rather than the victim of mountaintop removal. Communities along the old Big Sandy Railroad – Winchester, Mount Sterling, Olympia, Morehead, Olive Hill, and Grayson – each stand to gain so much if the proposed rail to trail along that old railroad line between Lexington and Ashland were completed. It is this kind of new economy which encourages locally owned business, historic preservation, and landscape preservation.

The costs are relatively low, but it takes a vision. And it takes leadership.

A Plain Marker Alludes to Rich History for Duncan Tavern in Paris

Historic Marker for Duncan Tavern  – Paris, Ky.

I’m amazed at how much information we now fit into the roadside markers with great care being taken to sentence syntax, etc. In its early days, however, the program might simply list a few notable facts about a person or place being memorialized. This was the case with Duncan Tavern in Paris, Ky. Reads Marker #93:

Duncan Tavern
Built 1788
Gathering Place of Pioneers
Shrine, Museum, Library.
Restored by
Kentucky Daughters of the
American Revolution.
That’s all folks!

But if you simply bear it and must know more, (and you should, because Duncan Tavern – formerly the Goddess of Liberty – was a hotbed of political activity in Kentucky’s early days) read on!

If you have been to historic Williamsburg, Va., you know the import of the local tavern in colonial America. I think of all the taverns near Virginia’s colonial government seat, where our nation’s founders would gather to discuss the issues of the day.

When Kentucky was divided by Virginia from its original three counties, one of the earliest new counties was Bourbon County. Its seat has always been Paris (originally chartered as Hopewell, Va. [*]). Thirty-three counties have been carved from Bourbon’s original borders. Needless to say, people traveled long distances to visit the county seat of Paris. And these individuals needed a place to stay and to eat.

The Goddess of Liberty, the original name of the Duncan Tavern, was the gathering place for Kentucky’s earliest leaders, including Daniel Boone, Simon Kenton, Peter Houston and Michael Stoner. [*]

The three story tavern was constructed in 1788 by Maj. Joseph Duncan. According to the Kentucky Encyclopedia, the architecture is remarkable given that most structures of the day in Paris were log buildings. According to at least one account, the tavern towered over the 20′ x 30′ log courthouse below. [*]

So while it may have a plain marker, its history is remarkable.

This Just Happened, a weekly roundup

My tailgate yesterday at Commonwealth. Banner Raised. 

News from around the site and the Commonwealth, brought together just for you! At Commonwealth Stadium last night, Kentucky was manhandled by an incredibly strong Alabama team. We knew this season would be tough, yet I’m hoping we rebound for a good second half of the season after the coming bye week. On another note, I convinced a couple of ‘Bama fans to enjoy their stay in Lexington a little longer (and not make the trip to Louisville). I hope they enjoy Keeneland today as well as all the historic sites in downtown Lexington. All part of #sharethelex, baby.

Now, for the roundup:

And now for elsewhere around the Commonwealth:
A portion of the Kentucky River may be more conducive to adventure tourism if Lock No. 8 is made operable. [Herald-Leader]
Louisville cemeteries subject of preservation symposium [Courier-Journal]
Post-game handshakes banned in Kentucky? We thought so for part of the week, until things were clarified. A PR mess for KHSAA. [Huffington Post]
New historic marker honors Cherokee role in Kentucky, Treaty of Sycamore Shoals. [KyForward]

LFUCG Council to spend $250,000 on old Fayette courthouse. [Herald Leader]

Magistrates Don’t Take Elixir in Jessamine County


The column below originally appeared in the Jessamine JournalIt should not be republished without permission.

A salesman comes to town offering a magical elixir with the promise to cure your many ailments. If you take the elixir, the salesman suggests that your congestion will be alleviated and your joints won’t hurt as much.

Jessamine Co. Couurthouse

And while the price might seem a little high, your improved overall health will lead to better days ahead.
At least that’s what the salesman would have you believe.

But the elixir is untested and the salesman can’t really explain yet how it works or precisely how it should be taken. Both precise dosing requirements and application directions seem to be a mystery. Is it a topical or something which should be taken orally?

As for the side effects? We don’t know about those either.

Oh, and as for that seemingly high price? The salesman will let you know the final cost after you’ve ordered.

The question begged, would you take the elixir on the promise of improved vitality?

Or would you wait until more information is known? How about waiting until experts can better explain the side effects? Do you want better dosing and application instructions?

The three governments in Jessamine County have each voted on the magic elixir and the two city commissions, those of Nicholasville and Wilmore, have each voted to go ahead and take the elixir.

The elixir in this analogy is, of course, the proposed 13 mile connector between Nicholasville and Interstate 75. I’ve previously penned my thoughts on the I-75 Connector, but this column isn’t being written to reprise those earlier writings.

Instead, I wanted to pause for a moment and look at the decision making of those in local government and how these elected leaders have examined this issue that will forever affect Jessamine County and her people.

The balance of the column can be read on the Jessamine Journal’s website. For those interested in reading more on my thoughts on the I-75 Connector, below are links to my previous columns on the subject:

Early John Wayne Western Part of Double Feature at the State Theatre #TBT

Double Feature at the State Theatre (1933)
Photo: Lafayette Studios Collection, U. of Kentucky (KDL)

With the announcement that the Kentucky Theatre will soon be closing for its first major renovation in a couple decades, it is important to remember her little neighbor that has become part of the two-screen gem at the heart of Lexington: the State Theatre.

The 80-year old photo above depicts a large number of children gathered on Main Street in Lexington under the marquee of the State Theatre. The “Two Feature Picture” includes The Phantom of Crestwood which was released on October 14, 1932 and Haunted Gold which was released on December 17, 1932.

The latter film depicted John Wayne as John Mason in what is considered an early Wayne western. Apparently, Mason returned to the Sally Ann mine to collect his share.

Do you have fond memories of the State Theatre? Share them in the comments!

And the answer to last week’s #ThrowbackThursday puzzler:

Last Week: 

A good number of you guessed the correct location of the old Coca-Cola bottling plant on Lexington’s West Short Street. A handy clue was the extant antique store and Catholic church which remained in the right edge of the frame. 
Now at this location are the Opera House Square town homes. So everyone there should pay homage to history and stock their fridges with a little Coca-Cola. 
Congrats to Brian who was the first to correctly guess the location of the old bottling plant, even if he (and everyone else) waited until Sunday to take a look!