thekaintuckeean – Page 63 – The Kaintuckeean

NoD: Lewis County’s Union Monument

Union Monument at the Lewis County Courthouse – Vanceburg, Ky.

One hundred seven young men from Lewis County died answering Lincoln’s call to “preserve the Union.” They were not alone. Over two million Northerners took up arms against their Southern brethren for a conflict that would last four years and cost the lives of hundreds of thousands. In Kentucky – a border state with dueling state governments and its star being counted on the flags of both Union and Confederacy – the War pitted brother against brother.

After the war, the practice of erecting statues and monuments in memory of the brave soldiers began. We see them in cemeteries, in parks and on the lawns of courthouses. But if you look closely at those erected by public subscription on the lawns of courthouses, you will find that only one in Kentucky is dedicated to the soldiers of the Union Army.

The Union Monument on the lawn of the Lewis County Courthouse, Vanceburg, is not just the only such memorial in Kentucky — it is the only such memorial south of the Mason-Dixon Line! All other Union memorials are located in cemeteries with the fallen.

Thirty feet tall and cut from limestone, it was also the first Civil War monument with a statue erected in the Commonwealth. The soldier, clutching his musket with both hands, wears a kepi cap, cape and winter coat.

Erected in 1884, the distinction of this monument as the only such monument south of the Mason-Dixon Line evinces Lewis County’s strong Union leanings. The following is inscribed upon this monument to the fallen: “The War for the Union was Right, Everlasting Right; And the War Against the Union was Wrong, Forever Wrong.”

Sources, inter alia, National Register.

kernel: Kentucky Architectural Photo Gallery

Robert W. Tebbs Photographs at the Lexington Public Library – Central Branch Gallery

I just happened upon an excellent collection of photographs in the gallery at the downtown branch of the Lexington Public Library. The photos were taken by the British architectural photographer Robert W. Tebbs (1875-1945). All are of excellent examples of Kentucky architecture, though not all of the photographed structures remain. It really is a collection worth seeing! Presented by the Filson Historical Society and Clay Lancaster’s Warwick Foundation, the highlight evening will be next Friday’s gallery hop (June 17, 5:00 – 8:00). But you can enjoy Tebbs’ work during regular library hours anytime through June 19th.

The Library often has a great collection in its gallery; check out the remaining 2011 schedule.

walkLEX: Graham Cottage

Graham Cottage – Lexington, Ky.

In antebellum Kentucky, education was a priority for many. In Hustonville in 1854, James M. Hocker formed a Christian College for women. It was the first all-female college this side of the Appalachian Mountains. After the Civil War, he relocated his “Hocker College” to a six acre tract on the west side of North Broadway in Lexington [*]. There, he called upon another leader in the Stone-Campbell restoration movement, Robert Graham, to assume the presidency of the institution. The residence pictured above was constructed in that year, 1869, as the college president’s home. Graham resigned in 1875 and, following a large donation, the college was renamed Hamilton College (I bet you can guess the donor’s last name!?).

By 1889, Transylvania University had taken an interest in the small college near its own campus and, in 1903, Transy converted Hamilton College into its own junior college before dissolving the institution entirely in 1932. The main building of Hocker/Hamilton was an impressive four-story brick Italianate that was repurposed as a women’s dormitory at Transy until the structure was demolished in 1962.

Today, the only remaining part of the Hocker/Hamilton College days is the Graham Cottage. Hardly a cottage, this stately home would serve as the home of four presidents of Transylvania University before the University began using the Cottage as an alumni house.

Speaking of alumni, one notable alumni of Hamilton College was Maurine Dallas Watkins, the scriptwriter who created the characters Roxie Hart and Velma Kelley for Chicago in 1926. Of course, the story was remade into a film in 1942 (with Ginger Rogers) and readapted as a musical (and a blockbuster film) in the past decade.

The Graham Cottage was described by Clay Lancaster as an “interesting antiquity” [*] and is one of three truly historic buildings standing on the campus of Transylvania University, the others being Old Morrison and the Patterson Cabin.

This post was republished on KyForward.com on June 8, 2011.

kernel: Hickman Creek

Hickman Creek – near Nicholasville, Kentucky (Jessamine)

NoD: A Kentucky of a Place

Looking across the Kentucky River into Fayette County – Madison Co., Ky.

I decided to get off of Interstate 75 as I approached Lexington from the south. Good decision. I wanted to enter into Fayette County using the old Clays Ferry Bridge, but I discovered a lot more. I took the “Clays Ferry” exit in northern Madison County and began zig-zagging my descent toward the Kentucky River on the old Lexington Road.

And then I saw the scenic overlook. I pulled to the side of the road and remembered why an 18th century Baptist preacher, when asked to describe heaven, said that “Heaven is a Kentucky of a place.” I’ve recognized this before, but never so close to Lexington.

The Kentucky River was high and clearly visible with the late-afternoon sun glistening off its pool. Everything else – verdant abundance on the hills and descending into the river valley. Aside from the ribbon of pavement at my feet, there was no indication that this pristine spot had been touched.

Yes, the preacher-man surely was right: “Heaven is a Kentucky of a place.”

NoD: Honest Bill from Olive Hill

Honest Bill from Olive Hill - Carter County, Ky.

Plaque on Marker at Courthouse Square – Grayson, Ky.

As you know, politics in Kentucky is “the damnedest.” Which may be the only logical explanation behind the slogan used by William Jason Fields in each of his campaigns: “Honest Bill from Olive Hill.”

Born in Willard (Carter Co.), Ky. in 1874, Fields went on to serve Kentucky’s Ninth District in Congress from 1911 to 1923 when he resigned from Congress to assume the governorship in Frankfort. He was governor for one term, 1923-1927. When Fields left the governor’s mansion, he signed 148 pardons and spent much time after his governorship defending “the innocence of convicted-and-pardoned murderers, manslaughterers, robbers forgers, embezzlers, housebreakers, barn burners.” (Time, 12-27-1927).

So how “honest” was Bill? Well, he did have that unusually high number of pardons. And it is unclear what favors he offered when he received the Democratic nomination for and was elected governor in 1923. Interesting story: the party’s nominee died and runner-up, Alben Barkley, declined the nomination (he had decided to run for U.S. Senate, a good decision for the later Vice-President). So the party’s central committee selected Wm. Jason Fields as its nominee. Despite a factious Democratic Party, Fields garnered the support of the all-powerful Jockey Club, U.S. Senator A.O. Stanley, Louisville banker James B. Brown, and our good friend Billy Klair to secure his election. [*]

Although he issued too many pardons, engaged in nepotism and was nominated and elected through a series of back-room deals, he was still “Honest Bill from Olive Hill.” Well, ain’t politics the damnedest? But, hey… he did sign into law the creation of the Kentucky Parks System. Thanks, governor!

kernel: Liquor for One’s Own Comfort

I’m adding a new hashtag: kernels. Yes, occasionally I want to share a picture, a story, an epithet or an anecdote without the research and detail that comes with one of my NoDestination posts. So, I hope you enjoy these Kentucky kernels.

The Kentucky Court of Appeals (then Kentucky’s high court) made this declaration in Commonwealth v. Campbell, 133 Ky. 50, 63 (Ky. 1909), a case rising from the quashing of a warrant issued against Campbell for bringing more than a quart of booze into Nicholasville:

The right to use liquor for one’s own comfort, if the use is without direct injury to the public, is one of the citizen’s natural and inalienable rights, guaranteed to him by the Constitution, and cannot be abridged as long as the absolute power of a majority is limited by our present Constitution.

hat tip: @williamhadamsii

NoD: Camp Nelson National Cemetery

Headstones at Camp Nelson National Cemetery – Nicholasville, Ky.

In southern Jessamine County lies the Camp Nelson National Cemetery, one of eight national cemeteries in the Commonwealth. Prior to being a designated national cemetery (1866), Sections A, B, C and D contained the buried dead from the Civil War-era Camp Nelson. This 3.5 acre area was subsequently expanded around the time of its designation to approximately 8 acres, but today it is much larger at about 51 acres (thanks in part to a donation of 10 acres made in 1975 and the acquisition of 21 acres in 2010). In fact, current acreage would allow a total of approximately 30,000 graves while the current census is less than 15,000.

A part of the massive Civil War-era Camp Nelson complex – once 4,000 acres – the first soldiers buried here were likely victims of smallpox and other non-conflict causes. At least one death was noted due to a “falling tree.” [*] After becoming a designated national cemetery, 2,023 dead from various Kentucky battlefields and skirmishes were reinterred here: from Frankfort (104), Richmond (241), London (266), Covington (437), and from Perryville, where the Confederates were defeated in October of 1862 (975).

Pictured above is one of the many headstones located at the cemetery. If you look closely, you’ll note that it is that of Larry C. Vrondis (a WWII Veteran who I have mentioned on this site before). On this Memorial Day, we thank all of our veterans (and their families) for their service to our country.

You can visit Camp Nelson for its Memorial Day events on Monday, May 30 at 11:00 a.m.

NoD: Cox Building

Cox Building – Maysville, Ky.

In November of 2010, fire ravaged Maysville’s historic Cox Building (photos). I immediately remembered the story when I was in Maysville the following month and observed all of the scaffolding around the building’s remaining shell. It was clear that the roof and top floor was a complete loss.

The building first opened in 1887 with its upper floors (primarily the Third) being a Masonic Lodge for the York Rite Knights Templar. Its opening was attended by Gov. J. Proctor Knott (a Templar) who stated that “The Temple is pronounced the handomest in Kentucky, and one of the finest in the South.”

The Cox Building replaced a tanyard and a “dilapidated two-story brick” with a Romanesque five-story designed by W. R. Brown of Crapsey & Brown, Cincinnati. The Masons shared their space throughout the years with other orders and organizations, including other Masonic rites, the Eastern Stars and the Grand Army of the Republic. Storefronts and offices contained a number of different businesses. Later, portions of the upper floors were converted into low-income housing.

The Cox Building is symmetrical on each of its visible facades with a tower in its corner. Visible in the tower shingles was a red cross – a tangible connection to the resident Templars. Of course, the Masons included a number of other architectural flourishes in the building’s design. Although the building appears to be a four story structure, there are in fact five stories with an ‘intermediate’ fourth floor between Three and Five. Apparently, this ‘intermediate’ floor contained the Red Cross Room and armoury (to be certain, it would have been the most secretive areas in the building as it was unknown from the street).

The City of Maysville acquired the building in 2006 and sought to renovate it as a community center which would include a culinary school to be part of the local community college. After the fire, the building was nominated for inclusion on the National Register with the hope of securing more grants to return this beautiful landmark of Maysville to its glory.

UPDATE: On August 18, 2011, the Cox Building was added to the National Register of Historic Places (11000538).

walkLEX: Pope Villa

Pope Villa – Lexington, Ky.

Designed by Benjamin Henry Latrobe in 1811 for Senator John Pope and his wife Eliza, this home is one of – if not the – best example of residential architecture in America by this incredible architect (only 3 remain).

Benjamin Latrobe was best known, however, for his work as the nation’s architect. In fact, he was the first professionally trained architect in the country. A friend of Thomas Jefferson and other leaders, Latrobe oversaw the construction of the U.S. Capitol, designed parts of the White House, and drew up the plans for the Baltimore Basilica.

Latrobe’s Kentucky clients were very involved in the design of their home – a perfect square footprint topped with a dome. The first floor “basement” included Pope’s office, Eliza’s parlor, in-house servant’s quarters and, of course, some “secret” passages. The primary floor of the Villa, however, was the second. Upon ascending the stairs, one would have found a circular domed main parlor (probably with an oculus skylight). To the right were the drawing room and the dining room – each with a curved wall creating two “dead zones” one of which would have completely obscured any utility from the middle window on the second floor. Bedrooms were to the left.

The Popes sold the property in 1829 when they left for Arkansas (John had been appointed by President Jackson to be the territorial governor). The Woolfolk family bought the home and, at the conclusion of the Civil War, retained Thomas Lewinski to redesign the building into an Italianate structure. (Lewinski was the Lexington architect of the era as Gideon Shryock had left for Louisville; Lewinski also designed the new Ashland estate and a number of downtown churches, including Christ Church Episcopal).

Over time, the property was expanded and converted into as many as ten apartments for University students. Despite all the damage done, original wallpaper samples and other architectural detail has been uncovered. [*]

Ravaged by arson in 1986, the property was thereafter purchased by the Bluegrass Trust which has carefully restored the exterior of Pope Villa to its 1812 appearance; the interior is an ongoing project. More pictures of the Pope Villa can be accessed here. Richard Moe, the President of the National Trust for Historic Preservation, has described the Pope Villa as “one of this country’s greatest treasures.” It certainly is one of Lexington’s.