In Memorium: Holmes Hall

Holmes Hall – University of Kentucky, ca. 1914. Author’s collection.

IMHO, the loss of Holmes Hall may be the most devastating of all the demolitions which occurred on campus this summer. Yes, others may have more historic or even architectural significance, but the realtor’s mantra of “location, location, location” weighs heavily (for me) with this demolition.

Holmes Hall stood at such a prominent location: the northeast corner of South Limestone and the Avenue of Champions. From its seat, Holmes Hall welcomed to the downtown area those traveling into Lexington along Nicholasville Road.

It was smartly set back from the curb with a good amount of green space. Behind, the structure consisted largely of three parts: a four-story brick dormitory not dissimilar to many other dormitories on campus, an interesting one-story brown stone appendage that wrapped the building’s frontage along Avenue of Champions as well as part of its eastern façade (the same stone was smartly used around each of the entrances), and the final part of the of Holmes Hall was what truly set it apart.

Holmes Hall – University of Kentucky. Author’s collection.

The stepped canopy that rose from the Avenue of Champions on the eastern side of Holmes Hall was always one of my favorite architectural features on campus. Stone columns held up each step of the multi-level canopy, with each level constructed of seamless concrete.

From beneath the canopy, the covered walkway appeared as a portal to another world. And from above, the canopy gave the impression of a multi-step waterfall. Its beauty was such that it could have easily been part of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Falling Water.

Demolition of Holmes Hall. Author’s collection.

It was a visible portal into the heart of Lexington. But the building and its canopy are gone.  It would have been nice if at least the canopied walk could have been incorporated into the new design, but this was not to be.

But it wasn’t the only structure on the campus of the University of Kentucky to be demolished in 2014. Gone, too, are Wenner-Gren, Hamilton House, and others. As the campus has grown or changed needs, a number of historic structures have fallen through the years like the old Carnegie Library and White Hall.

What was your favorite campus building at UK that has been removed? Mention it, or share your memories about Holmes Hall, in the comments.

This post is based on an excerpt about the Lost Campus from LOST LEXINGTON, KY.

Lexington has dozens of well-restored landmarks, but so many more are lost forever. The famous Phoenix Hotel, long a stop for weary travelers and politicians alike, has risen from its own ashes numerous times over the past centuries. The works of renowned architect John McMurtry were once numerous around town, but some of the finest examples are gone. The Centrepointe block has been made and unmade so many times that its original tenants are unknown to natives now.

Where to purchase LOST LEXINGTON?

3 Kentucky Memorials Honor Our Veterans

Armistice Day. It was on the eleventh hour, of the eleventh day, of the eleventh month in the year 1918 that World War I ceremonially ended.

In time, and in recognition of the many more conflicts in which American servicemen and women fought, the holiday was renamed to Veterans Day. To all those who have served our country, thank you.

Below are images of 3 selected memorials around Kentucky which honor the servicemen of World War I:

Springfield, Kentucky. Author’s collection.
Paintsville, Kentucky. Author’s collection
Morehead, Kentucky. Author’s collection.

Good Giving Challenge Is On!

Thumbing through the Good Giving Guide on Sunday evening, I was reminded of how many incredible nonprofit organizations serve our community and our region. The guide is designed to do exactly that. It describes what a nonprofit does and why the organization is great.

During the holiday season, we will be inundated by requests for support by worthy causes. Often, it is difficult to sift through all of those organizations. Although the guide omits many critical central Kentucky charitable organizations (there’s no way to list them all!), it does describe over 150 charitable groups.

The Good Giving Guide is produced in partnership between the Blue Grass Community Foundation (BGCF) and Smiley Pete Publishing. The 45-year old BGCF partners with individuals, families, businesses and nonprofits to raise funds for groups that enhance the quality of life in eastern and central Kentucky.

Last year’s Good Giving Challenge raised over $1.6 million for 107 different local nonprofit organizations. Too often, we think that just a few dollars of giving will accomplish little, but through matching partnerships even small gifts are magnified.

The Good Giving Guide details what a $50 contribution to different organizations will buy. For God’s Pantry, that will provide 431 pounds of fresh produce for Kentucky families. At the Saint Joseph Hospital Foundation, $50 of giving will provide 25 warm blankets for babies suffering from drug withdrawal in the NICU. The Growing Together Preschool organization can outfit a pre-K classroom with its science materials, and Lexington Philharmonic can introduce 25 low-income elementary school students to the arts. Any of these things is possible with such a small gift.

The guide is broken down into the principal kind of outreach done by the nonprofit: animal welfare, arts and culture, community outreach, education, environment, health, human services, and youth.

Among the pages are a host of humane societies throughout the region. So, too, are art and historic house museums, libraries, schools, food banks, and homeless coalitions. The list goes on and on. Many of the nonprofits are located in Lexington, but several of these have a reach beyond that city’s limits. There were also several nonprofits each from Clark and Boyle counties, as well as other counties in the region.

But only one charity from Jessamine County was in the pages of the Good Giving Guide: the Camp Nelson Honor Guard. This all-volunteer resident guard provides full, enhanced military funeral rites at Camp Nelson National Cemetery, supports the rifle details there, and works events annually. The honor guard is great because it brings honor, dignity and tradition to one of the last pristine Civil War sites in the nation.

There are a number of other worthy Jessamine County charitable groups, and I’d hope that they could join the Challenge in 2015. Doing so provides a big boost to the region’s awareness of a nonprofit and its mission.
During the Good Giving Challenge, each of the 150-plus organizations have matching gifts from a number of businesses and individuals, mostly local.

This holiday season, I’d encourage everyone to make a contribution to a worthy charity this holiday season. The 2014 Good Giving Challenge began this week and runs through December 12. If you are looking for a good charity to plug in with, pick up a copy of the Good Giving Guide or visit www.bggives.org.

A version of this column originally appeared in the Jessamine Journal on November 6, 2014It should not be republished without permission.

Lost Lexington Events This Weekend

Panel Discussion During Lost Lexington Launch Event at the Blue Grass Trust
(L-R) Yvonne Giles, Mark Naylor, Tom Eblen, Peter Brackney, Bill Johnston, and Jason Sloan.
Not pictures: Holly Wiedemann, moderator.

If you missed the book signing and discussion at the Thomas Hunt Morgan House hosted by the Blue Grass Trust, you can check out one of the two book signings scheduled for this weekend:

Signing copies of Lost Lexington.

At Morris Book Shop, 882 E. High St. in Lexington, there will be a Lost Lexington reading and signing from 2-4 on Sunday, November 9. Mark your attendance at the Facebook event by clicking here.

There will also be a reading and signing on Sunday evening from 6-8 at the Barnes & Noble, 1932 Pavilion Way, in Hamburg (Lexington) during the store’s Awesome Author weekend. Information about all author’s featured during the weekend is available by clicking here.

There are other events scheduled in the coming weeks as well. Details about these can be found by clicking here.

Now a few more details and pictures from the BGT event …

The BGT event on Monday was great fun. After a book signing and mingling, a gathering assembled in the auditorium at the Thomas Hunt Morgan House for a reading from Lost Lexington. Though the picture didn’t turn out quite as I had hoped, I snapped a picture (above) of the audience before reading excerpts from Lost Lexington. It was a great crowd!

After my reading, a panel discussion considered Lexington’s past and its future with lots of great questions from the audience. A big thanks to all who participated on or moderated the panel, to the BGT for hosting the event, and to all who came!

Be sure to listen this weekend to your favorite Clear Channel station. There should be a short clip of my interview for the Kentucky News Network. Stay tuned!

And one more note: If you have read Lost Lexington, please take a moment and submit a review online either on amazon, barnes & noble, or goodreads. Thanks!

225 Years of Ministry: Lexington’s First United Methodist Church

Reflection of the First United Methodist Church. Author’s collection

The First United Methodist Church on High Street was built in 1907, though the church’s ministry in central Kentucky extends much further into history. In fact, this year marks the congregation’s 225th year of ministry.

Originally known as the Lexington Society of Methodists when it was begun by Francis Poythress, an elder and circuit rider who had evangelized in the area since 1788. According to Collins’ 1847 History of Kentucky,

As a preacher, few in those days excelled him. His voice was clear and musical; his knowledge of the scriptures vast and accurate; his sermons bedewed with his tears in his closet, fell as the dews of life upon the hearts of his congregation; sinners trembled before the Lord, and the keen flash of the Spirit’s sword was felt passing all through the soul, discerning by its brightness, the “thoughts and intents of the heart.”

In 1790, Poythress invited Francis Asbury to Kentucky and Asbury then preached at the first Methodist conference in Kentucky which was hosted on the property of Richard Masterson about five miles from Lexington. A remaining parcel of this land remains undeveloped as Masterson Park.

The 1789 Lexington church first began on the east end of town and is considered the first Methodist church west of the Allegheny Mountains. It is also one of the first 100 Methodist Churches in America.

But during the early 1800s, the church outgrew its location. A lot was purchased on Hill Street (now known as High Street) and a new church was constructed in 1840. Expansion again occurred twice, but by 1900 the Lexington Methodist Church had again outgrown itself.

So in 1907, the old church building was razed in favor of the present structure which sits on the same site. The cornerstone of the present church was laid on January 13, 1908 and the church was dedicated a year later on January 10, 1909.

The cost to build the 700-seat Methodist Church was $65,000 and the Columbus, Ohio architecture firm of Richards, McCarty and Buford were hired for the project.

The building on High Street has had several additions over the past century and the congregation has begun a number of missions which have become churches in their own right. The church history, posted on the church’s website, concludes that even into “its third century, First United Methodist Church continues its mission to invite, equip and deploy faithful followers of Jesus Christ across the street and around the world.”

TONIGHT: deTour at Longwood Antique Woods

Photos from Longwood. Courtesy of Mary Sloan and Whitney Rhorer.

If you are on Pinterest, you have no doubt seen images of old, worn items being transformed into neat decorative pieces or functional pieces of furniture. When a house near our home was demolished, I salvaged a few doors and used one for the front of a bar when remodeling our basement.

Some of the flooding, doors, furniture and other items that can be salvaged are of incredibly high quality made of very fine materials. So when structures cannot be saved, efforts can and should be taken to extract the salvageable pieces so that they can be preserved and repurposed. 
For over two decades, George Gatewood has been doing exactly that. He has been at the forefront of this kind of historic preservation for over two decades is George Gatewood. Tonight, join BGT deTours for an exclusive tour of George’s Longwood Antique Woods. Longwood is located at located at 325 Midland Place and we will tour the showroom, offices, and woodworking facility. We will also walk-through their re-purposing methods.  Here is a little more about Longwood’s process from its website:

Longwood Antique Woods has been in the business of reclaiming and recycling old wood for twenty-two years and has supplied countless material solutions for floors, doors, bars, beams, furniture art, and much more. The antique wood in our collections is salvaged from historic barns, warehouses, and cabins slated for destruction throughout the Bluegrass region of Kentucky. Our mission is to supply a green product with a unique history; whether it is from the barn of highly recognized War Admiral or rural farmer Papa Shepard. These products add to the architect’s “green” ratings and the end user’s sense of environmental responsibility, all within an historical context without harvesting a single tree. The wood is meticulously saved by our team of craftsmen, restored and reused rather than being lost forever.

Parking (free!) can be found on site and the group will begin gathering at 5:30 p.m. with the tour starting at 5:45. For more details about the BGT deTours program, and to stay informed about future deTours, you can LIKE BGT deTours on Facebook at facebook.com/BGTdeTours. BGT deTours are free and open to the public.

Go Vote Where Politics is the Damnedest

One of the most popular posts on this site has been the text from James Hillary Mulligan’s poem, In Kentucky, which I posted on election day, 2010. Today I make the same plea I made four years ago: get out and VOTE!

Today, I’ll give a little more background on the man who delivered the poem as it is recalled in my new book, Lost Lexington which is available on shelves today.

Judge James Hillary Mulligan * 

One of the great moments in the Phoenix Hotel’s storybook involves a speech delivered to a group of legislators by Judge James Mulligan. James Hillary Mulligan was the son of Dennis Mulligan, an Irish Catholic political boss whose machine swiftly controlled much of Kentucky. Dennis Mulligan gave his son a home on Rose Street as a wedding gift. The residence, known as Maxwell Place, has served as the home for the president of the University of Kentucky since it was purchased from the Mulligan estate by the college in 1917.

During his own career, James Mulligan reached high levels of political power, including a stint as speaker of the house in Kentucky’s general assembly. He preferred, however, the title of “judge” in deference to the position he attained in his legal career.

Mulligan also served as the consul general in the American Samoa and held positions in the United States Treasury Department. The Lexington Leader wrote that he was “a shrewd looking man, even through his spectacles, and has an air of always being alert. The Judge loves to debate, has a penchant for thoroughbreds, does not care for society, and can make a better humorous or satirical speech than any man in the state of Kentucky.”

It was that humorous and satirical spirit which provided Mulligan his greatest legacy. In the ballroom of the Phoenix Hotel in February 1902, Mulligan spoke before a number of state legislators. To conclude his toast, “he drew from his pocket, as if drawing a deadly weapon, dangerous-looking type written manuscript, and peering over his glasses with a smile of satisfaction that amounted almost to a leer, read” his poem, In Kentucky:

The moonlight falls the softest
  In Kentucky;
The summer’s days come oft’est
  In Kentucky;
Friendship is the strongest,
Love’s fires glow the longest;
Yet, a wrong is always wrongest
  In Kentucky.

Song birds are the sweetest
  In Kentucky;
The thoroughbreds the quickest
  In Kentucky;
Mountains tower proudest,
Thunder peals the loudest,
The landscape is the grandest—and
Politics—the damnedest
  In Kentucky.

The poem has seven verses and you can read them all here.

This post is based on an excerpt about the Phoenix Hotel from LOST LEXINGTON, KY.

Lexington has dozens of well-restored landmarks, but so many more are lost forever. The famous Phoenix Hotel, long a stop for weary travelers and politicians alike, has risen from its own ashes numerous times over the past centuries. The works of renowned architect John McMurtry were once numerous around town, but some of the finest examples are gone. The Centrepointe block has been made and unmade so many times that its original tenants are unknown to natives now.

Where to purchase LOST LEXINGTON?

Lost Lexington Hits Shelves & Tonight’s Event

Lost Lexington is front and center at the
Morris Book Shop

Today’s Monday morning update includes a few notes about Lost Lexington, which will officially be available tomorrow (November 4).

But you don’t need to wait: you can pick up the book at tonight’s book signing and discussion on historic preservation hosted by the Blue Grass Trust (details below) on shelves at local bookstores like Morris Book Shop.

For information about all the upcoming author events and for information about where you can purchase the book, visit Lost Lexington’s page. You can (and should) also “LIKE” Lost Lexington on Facebook!

And in case you missed it, check out Tom Eblen’s awesome write up about Lost Lexington in yesterday’s Lexington Herald-Leader.

Now a few details about tonight’s event at the Blue Grass Trust:

The Blue Grass Trust presents Peter Brackney and his book “Lost Lexington” Monday, November 3 @ 5:30 pm: Book Signing, Panel Discussion, and Sip & Nosh, at the Thomas Hunt Morgan House, 210 N. Broadway.

The evening will begin at 5:30 pm at the BGT’s newly-acquired Thomas Hunt Morgan House at 210 N. Broadway with Sips & Nosh and a Book Signing. 

Thomas Hunt Morgan House, site of tonight’s event. Photo: BGT 

At 6:00 pm, Mr. Brackney will speak about his book “Lost Lexington”, followed by a panel discussion about preservation in Lexington and the Bluegrass. The book signing, and sips & nosh will conclude at 7:30 pm. Event guests may take advantage of free parking in the lots at both the Thomas Hunt Morgan and the Hunt-Morgan Houses. A portion of the proceeds will go to benefit the programs of the BGT. 

You can RSVP for this event by calling the BGT at 859/253.0362 or on Facebook.

About Lost Lexington: Lexington has dozens of well-restored landmarks, but many more are lost forever. The famous Phoenix Hotel, long a stop for weary travelers and politicians alike, has risen from its own ashes numerous times over the past centuries. The works of renowned architect John McMurtry were once numerous around town, but some of the finest examples are gone. The Centrepointe block has been made and unmade so many times that its original tenants ae unknown to natives now. Join local blogger, attorney and preservationist Peter Brackney as he explores the intriguing back stories of these hidden Bluegrass treasures. The foreword of “Lost Lexington” was penned by Mayor Jim Gray.

Boo! Looking at the Halloweens of Lexington’s Past

The iconic PumpkinMania at Transylvania University in Lexington, Ky. Author’s collection.

Halloween’s first mention in the newspapers of Lexington came in 1896. The holiday had spread across America along with waves of immigrants, much to the dismay of those of Puritan descent. That reference in 1896 explained “Hal’ow’en” “and how it is celebrated. Something about its origin, history and traditions.”

By 1901, the “tricks” had begun. The Lexington Leader warned its reachers to be on the “look out for pranks tonight.” It was warned that “these local spirits wait a whole year for this night, and woe unto the man whose fences and gates are not bound together strongly or else provided with the proper immovable latches.”

The students of the State College (later, the University of Kentucky) joined the fray. Four State College students were arrested for “violent behavior” on Halloween night.

In 1903, students at Kentucky University (later, Transylvania) enjoyed their own festivities. A party was celebrated in the school’s gymnasium and “all attendants [were] promised a delightful evening, though they [had] to pay dearly for their enjoyment. Before they [could] enter the large room bedecked with autumnal leaves, corn stalks, pumpkins and other rural beauties, the guests pass[ed] through the weird and uncanny scenes of Hades.”

But it was the 1906 Halloween riot that began to change the holiday’s tone in Lexington. As a result of the riot, during which a number of Lexington police officers were “roughly handled,” several students were expelled by late November. Minutes from the December UK Trustees’ meeting reveals that the riots, the obstruction of the streetcars, and the way in which many of the students hid from their actions by retiring speedily back to their dorm rooms caused President Patterson to even consider removing dormitory life from the University.

President Patterson and the University Faculty, ca. 1907. UK Libraries.

That measure did not happen. But the following year, President James Patterson spoke to the student body on Halloween on the origins of the holiday and encouraged peaceful festivities. Patterson’s words must have resonated for the holiday did not warrant inclusion in the local papers for a few years.

The Kentucky Kernel, Nov. 2, 1916.
UK Libraries. 

It was a decade later, in 1916, when the police were again “busy” with “pranks and disorders.” News accounts in the Kentucky Kernel believed that “according to the ancient and revered tradition of the people of the city, University of Kentucky students were blamed with all the disorder committed.” Incidents involving the “several people [who] were shot” during the night were blamed on UK students.

In what must have been a disastrous period for “Town-Gown” relations, riotous events of varying degrees occurred each Halloween through the 1920s.

At that time, the University instituted a annual Halloween dance for its students. While a seemingly fun activity, its design was truly to contain the students.

The Buell Armory’s floor was decorated and the students wore costumes to the dance.

A Halloween Dance at the University of Kentucky. UK Libraries
A Halloween Dance at the University of Kentucky. UK Libraries.

The costumes worn by the students would have been unacceptable, offensive, and certainly politically incorrect today. The images above depict some students in blackface while others are dressed up as members of the Klan. It would not be until 1949 when African-Americans were admitted to the University of Kentucky.

By the mid-century, the focus of the newspaper’s attention on Halloween had centered around children. In 1977, the Lexington Leader first reported on the disgusting act of tampering with Halloween candy with razor blades, pins, and drugs. In 1982, the LFUCG began urging civic organizations to promote trick-or-treating alternatives (like trunk-or-treats) because of the increasing fears over the tampered with candy. Once council member even sought to ban trick-or-treating altogether.

In 1993, the Herald-Leader suggested that kids dress up as arctic explorers because of the “first-ever Halloween snow forecast.” Which, of course brings us to tonight with snow once again on the forecast.

Stay warm, have fun, and be safe! And Happy Halloween!!

10 children’s books about Appalachia that every child should read

If you’re like me, you’ve got kids. And you love Kentucky. So fill up your home library with some Kentucky tales and stories that are good and straight from the heart of our Mountains. This week’s Wednesday list comes from guest contributor Courtney Hall. More about her and her blog, The Bourbon Soaked Mom, is at the bottom of the post. – {from Peter}:

Courtney offers these 10 books about Appalachia that every child should read (the titles and images link to each book on amazon.com. The Kaintuckeean receives a percentage of each sale from these links – thanks!):

1
Trouble in Troublesome Creek
by Nancy Kelly Allen

An inspiring story of bravery, and courage. I grew up on the banks of Troublesome Creek, and this book is a reflection of times when one could wander along creek banks and splash in watering holes with a child’s spirit. Beware: reading is sure to make you nostalgic.

2
When I was Young in the Mountains
by Cynthia Rylant

My all time favorite children’s book. Rylant explores life as a child of Appalachia. She recalls her Grandfather coming home, covered with coal dust, her love of fried okra, and having to be chaperoned outside late at night to use an out-house. This book is a wonderful, and poetic reflection of simpler times, when family and love was all you really needed.

3
The Relatives Came
by Cynthia Rylant

Rylant illustrates the simplicity of life in Appalachia again, in this tale of an annual visit from far away relatives. She notes the anticipation and excitement that is brought by the mention of “relatives” coming, along with all those little inconveniences that are endured when accommodations have to be made. “It was hard going to sleep, with all that new breathing in the house.”

4
My Mountain Song
by Shutta Crum

A beautiful tale about Brenda Gail, who is spending the summer with her grandparents in the mountains of Kentucky. Grandpa tells her everyone has a song, just waiting to come out. That summer, Brenda finds her own song, and learns about life along the way. The illustrations in this book are so wonderful, and will make you want to head over to Grandma’s and get out your fiddle.

5
Appalachia: The Voices of Sleeping Birds
by Cynthia Rylant & Barry Moser

Once again, Cynthia Rylant paints a true and honest picture of the beautiful, unique and sometimes harsh realities of life in Appalachia. Both Rylant and Moser draw from their own upbringings and memories of this much fabled region, and the unique group of people who inhabit “those shimmering painted mountains.”

6
My Great Aunt Arizona
by Gloria Houston

A beautiful, true life story about the author’s Aunt, who against all circumstance and hardship, became an inspiring teacher in the Blue Ridge Mountains. Houston touches on the days of one-room schooling, and how even the most unexpected teachers can inspire us in more ways than we could ever dream.

7
Ida Early Comes Over the Mountain
by Robert Burch

Set in rural Georgia, during the Great Depression, Ida Early turns up at the doorstep of the Sutton family, whose household in wholly unhappy. Even though Ida exaggerates much of her life, and her accomplishments, it is she, the non-conformist, who teaches the Sutton family what life is all about.

8
A Penny’s Worth of Character
by Jesse Stuart

Stuart epitomizes the value of honesty in this well loved classic. Set in Stuart’s native (and mine, as well) Eastern Kentucky, Shan Shelton is faced with a dilemma. Be dishonest and receive what he wants, or face the repercussions and guilt of gain by being deceitful. I have always loved this book, and it is a great way to show your children strength of character.

9
The Big Toe: An Appalachian Ghost Story
by Ellie Kirby

This well known Appalachian folk story has been passed down from generation to generation. I remember my Grandmother telling it to myself and my cousins, and being completely bewildered by it. Children are sure to enjoy this spooky addition to the colorful folklore of this area, and be just a little scared by it, too.

10
Miss Dorothy and her Bookmobile
by Gloria Houston

Set in the North Carolina mountains, Miss Dorothy is a librarian with a problem. There are no libraries. She decides that if the folks in her community have no library, she’d bring the library to them. She used her bookmobile to distribute books to children and families who otherwise would have no means to get books. A beautiful and inspiring story of determination and love of community.

I hope you all enjoy reading these books to your children. If you are familiar with Appalachia, I hope they make you smile. If you aren’t, I hope you gain insight into this lovely area and come to appreciate it’s beauty and simplicity.

Courtney Hall is a wife, mother of two and daughter of Appalachia. Hailing from Hazard Kentucky, she writes a blog, The Bourbon Soaked Mom, that continually aims to draw positive attention to her hometown, her region, and all things Kentucky.

Read more from Courtney at
thebourbonsoakedmom.blogspot.com.