NoD: Vanceburg Visitor’s Center located in historic home, hotel

Vanceburg Streetscape
George Morgan Thomas Home / Vanceburg Visitors Center – Vanceburg, Ky.

This home built in 1883 has had many lives, but its ornate rail, turreted corner and peaked roof speak to its Victorian-era origin. Built originally as the home of George Morgan Thomas, the house would later be utilized as a hotel before its present service as the Vanceburg Visitor’s Center.

George Morgan Thomas
A Lewis County native, George Morgan Thomas was born in 1828. He was educated in the “common school” before becoming the local school’s commissioner at age 28. GMT began the practice of law in 1851 after studying law – an era when law school was not a prerequisite to esquiredom. After becoming the prosecuting attorney in Lewis County, GMT went on a roll of political offices utilizing his Masonic and Republican connections: state house, county judge, circuit judge. In the election of 1880, GMT sought a seat in Congress and though he received more votes in Kentucky’s Ninth Congressional District then did presidential candidate James A. Garfield, GMT lost the race. Garfield, however, appointed GMT as the United States District Attorney for Kentucky – an office he held until the end of the Chester Arthur administration. In 1886, GMT claimed his seat in Congress which he held for only one term in favor of an appointment President McKinley as Internal Revenue solicitor. All sources here confuse me as it appears GMT served simultaneously for two years in both the legislative and executive branches of government. GMT retired in 1901 and passed in 1914. 
Though rail traffic had been found since the house was only five years old, the installation of a second rail in 1913 required the removal of homes across the street. Fortunately, this house was saved though the view from the front porch would never be the same. Nearly ten years later, GMT’s heirs sold the family home in 1925 to Maurice Burriss who renovated the home to repurpose it as the Commercial Hotel – a useful occupation given the location of the rail depot now facing the home-turned-hotel.
Burriss died in 1963 and, with him, the hotel closed in 1965. The history of the building vanishes until 2001 when the bank-owned property was given to the City of Vanceburg. Using Kentucky Renaissance on Main project funds, the City restored the fifteen-room home. On July 3, 2006, the  newly restored George Morgan Thomas home was dedicated to the citizens of Vanceburg as the new visitor’s center. 

NoD: Orlando Brown House built to make inheritance equal

Orlando Brown House - Frankfort, Ky.
Orlando Brown House – Frankfort, Ky.

John Brown wanted his two eldest sons to inherit equally, which was anything but a standard bequest in his day. Brown, who served as Kentucky’s first United States Senator and was instrumental in bringing Kentucky into the Union, had constructed Liberty Hall on Wilkinson Street in old Frankfort. Though Senator Brown purchased eight acres in 1796, Liberty Hall would not be completed 1804.

Mason, the elder Brown son, would inherit Liberty Hall. But what of the younger boy, Orlando? For him, the statesman contacted famed architect Gideon Shryock to design an adjacent residence in 1835. Construction of this beautiful Greek Revival two-story cost only $5,000. Both the Orlando Brown House and Liberty Hall operate as museum today.

Orlando Brown, born 1801, was educated at Princeton and Transylvania before beginning the practice of law in 1823. In love, he had expressed interest in his cousin, Mary Watts Brown, who was seven years younger than he. Upon her rejection in 1824, Brown took his law books to Alabama but returned to his hometown in 1829. The two were married the following year.

By 1833, Orlando Brown realized his passion was not in law but in writing. He took the position of editor of The Frankfort Commonwealth that year and Brown became a voice for the Whigs. In 1848, Orlando Brown served as Secretary of State in Governor John J. Crittenden’s administration. Also that year, Brown wrote furiously in favor of the Whig’s presidential candidate: General Zachary Taylor. When Taylor won the presidency, Brown was summoned to Washington and asked to serve his country as the Commissioner of Indian Affairs.

The man and the job were not a good match; Brown resigned in 1850 and returned to Frankfort. There, he and his brother would jointly enter into many civic endeavors, including the organization of the Frankfort Cemetery. Too, Brown and his father were among those who in 1836 created the Kentucky Historical Society. And for all of his efforts, Orlando Brown has the distinction of being named the first honorary Kentucky Colonel.

Sources: Ky EncylopediaLibertyHall.org; Orlando Brown Papers

NoD:: Honest Abe stands under Capitol dome for 100 years

Lincoln Statue in Kentucky Capitol
Lincoln Statue in the Rotunda –
Kentucky State Capitol, Frankfort

The likeness of our 16th President, Abraham Lincoln, stands at attention under the rotunda of Kentucky’s state capitol. Last week, the statue celebrated its a centennial only one year after the building itself turned 100 years old.

Almost as soon as the new capitol opened, Gov. Augustus E. Wilson urged his wealthy friend James Breckenridge Speed to fund the erection of the statue commemorating the only President born in Kentucky. With the gift from Speed of $40,000 (equal to approximately $900,000 today), a statue of Lincoln’s likeness was installed directly under the dome of our new state capitol. Speed’s uncle, Joshua Speed, was a confidant of Lincoln. President William Howard Taft was present at the statue’s unveiling.

The bronze statue weighs in at approximately 17,000 pounds when the marble base is included It was designed and cast by Adolf A. Weinman, a German-American sculptor whose work can be seen across the country. Other Lincoln likenesses by Weinman include the seated Lincoln in Hodgenville, Kentucky for which there is a replica on the campus of the University of Wisconsin-Madison.

Of the statue in Frankfort, Lincoln’s left toe extends beyond the edge of the marble base. For years, it has been tradition to rub the President’s shoe for good luck.

The former President is surrounded by statues of four other great Kentuckians: Henry Clay, Epheaim McDowell, Alben Barkley, and Jefferson Davis. Due to weight limits, no other Kentuckians can join their ranks.

Sources: LHL; LRC

NoD: Celebrate Veterans Day by Thanking a Doughboy

Carter County, Ky. Jamestown, Ky.
Doughboy – Grayson, Ky. Doughboy – Jamestown, Ky.

I’m sure that around the country, hospitals will see an uptick in deliveries and scheduled caesareans. And many couples will share their nuptials on this memorable date: 11-11-11. Grooms won’t have to worry about forgetting that anniversary!

Rowan County, Ky.
Morehead, Ky.

But November 11 also has a symbolic meaning in our country and around the globe for on “the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month” in the year 1918, hostilities with Germany ended thus concluding “The Great War” (n/k/a World War I). In America, this date was celebrated for years as Armistice Day until after the conclusion of another great war – World War II – that the date became known simply as Veteran’s Day. In other countries, November 11 is referred to as Remembrance Day.

I am particularly fond of the original term Armistice Day because of its historic context. The young Americans in the early part of the twentieth century crossed the ocean to fight the Germans in an era when crossing the ocean wasn’t something you did for reasons other than immigration. Earlier this year, Frank Buckles of Missouri passed away – he was the last of the American doughboys from World War I.

Pikeville, Ky.
Pikeville, Ky.

Statues of  World War I doughboys stand in memorium around America in front of courthouses, in cemeteries and in town squares. In fact, the doughboy statue is the most reproduced life-size statue in America with 140 known copies. First designed and sculpted by E.M. Viquesney in 1920, “The Spirit of the American Doughboy” went through a few design changes over the years. Though most don’t realize it, Viquesney’s doughboy is likely the most witnessed sculpture in the United States other than the Statue of Liberty herself.

In Kentucky, eight Viquesney statues are known to exist in the following towns: Grayson, Harlan, Jamestown, Liberty, Monticello, Morehead, Pikeville and Winchester. The first of these to be installed was the Monticello doughboy in January 1923; the last was in Jamestown 75 years ago today on Armistice Day, 1936.

Whatever its name, it is a day to thank the men and women in uniform who have served our country. And though many people only recognize today as being a day when schools, banks and government offices are closed, it is because our soldiers fought that we can enjoy our freedoms today.

Source: Viquesney Database

NoD: Where will Newtown Pike take you? Newtown, of course!

Newtown, Kentucky
Newtown Christian Church – Georgetown, Ky.

When visitors (or my wife) get lost in Lexington, I am also befuddled. Lexington is designed as a wheel with spokes. Each of these spokes points to the downtown core passing New Circle Road along its way.

To make matters simpler, each of these roads is named after the next city along the way. Nicholasville Road. Harrodsburg Road. Paris Pike. Winchester Road. Richmond Road. Though some of the towns for which they spoke roads are named are not so obvious unless you are a local cartographer or history buff.

In fact, it was not until recently that I learned the origin of Newtown Pike. Yes, a drive down Kentucky 922 will take you through a beautiful, historic part of Fayette County before crossing into Scott County and depositing you at a junction with US 460. There the little hamlet of Newtown awaits with the same baited breath that it held over one hundred years ago. Which is another way of saying that Newtown has not changed much since it was first settled, which is believed to be in the 1780s. That’s right. There isn’t much “new” about Newtown.

The most impressive structure, the Newtown Christian Church (Disciples of Christ) is pictured above. The congregation dates to 1856 and was organized by Elder John Gano; the brick sanctuary was completed in 1857. Newtown also was the home to both Methodist and Presbyterian congregations according to town’s best authority: a history completed in 1882.

Today, the church is in fair condition. Several houses are nearby and an abandoned store is across the Paris Pike (US 460). A short distance toward Georgetown is a well-kept general store to which I hope to return.

But this is the end of the spoke that is Newtown Pike – a completed tale in the wheel of Lexington.

But, to disclose, I do have great sympathy for those visiting Lexington, as well as my wife. No town should have a St. Ann Street that becomes Fontaine that becomes Euclid that becomes Avenue of Champions before becoming Winslow. Yes, Lexington is a confusing mess of roads. But the wheel and spoke design is easy to understand if you just try.

kernel: Town Branch Bourbon a Dandy Nightcap

Town Branch Bourbon
Town Branch Bourbon (neat)

It is undisputed that Kentucky’s signature is bourbon. But Kentucky’s signature city, Lexington, hasn’t produced any bourbon since 1958 when the James E. Pepper distillery closed.

That all changed last month. On October 20, Lyons’ Spirits – a subsidiary of Alltech – launched its Town Branch Bourbon just before the National Horse Show arrived in Lexington.

Town Branch, of course, is a reference to the stream which flows underneath downtown Lexington. As the middle fork of the Elkhorn Creek, it is what attracted settlers to Lexington. In 1779, Colonel Robert Patterson led a group of settlers in the establishment of the blockhouse for what would become Lexington. The blockhouse was in fact quite close to that middle fork of the Elkhorn.

The following year, 1780, James Pepper began distillery operations in Lexington using water harnessed from the Town Branch itself. The city of Lexington grew on the axis created by the Town Branch – it is a central part of our community. Even the label of the bourbon bearing its name illustrates a map of downtown Lexington with a blue line tracing the path of the waterway.

Today, an effort is underway to return the Town Branch to its place of import. Uncovering parts of the stream in parklike settings with trails is underway and business efforts like the Town Branch Market and the newly drinkable Town Branch Bourbon bring attention to the cause.

As for drinking Town Branch Bourbon, I’ve given Town Branch a few tastes over a few nights to gauge how it really touches my palate. It can be a bit peppery, but it is rather smooth — it almost seems somewhat underaged, which could be the result of its lower-than-usual proof. Still it is enjoyable both neat and on ice, though I’ve yet to mix it with an Ale-8. At a price point of about $22, it is a great purchase. 

NoD: President Garfield became a General in Pikeville

Pikeville, Ky.
Pikeville City Park – Pikeville, Ky.

Last week on Jeopardy!, a question in the category 19th century Presidents concerned a man who simultaneously served as a congressman from Ohio, a senator-elect, and as President-elect. But before Ohioan James A. Garfield achieved these three titles, he served in the Civil War and was appointed brigadier general while encamped in Piketon n/k/a Pikeville.

President James A. Garfield

In early January 1862, Colonel James A. Garfield led Union troops to victory at the Battle of Middle Creek in Floyd County which forced Confederates out of southeast Kentucky and secured the Big Sandy Valley for the Union. During the battle, a company of Kentucky Unionists were almost the targets of a volley from their Ohioan compatriots but Col. Garfield – realizing the impending threat – caused the Kentuckians to let out a “Hurrah for the Union” – a cheer that saved their lives.

It was the victory that prompted Garfield to receive the commission of brigadier general in January 1862. Already headquartered in Pikeville when his commission arrived, there was no senior military brass to swear-in Garfield so the task was left to a justice of the peace, squire John Charles. Garfield was sworn in at the Ratliff Tavern (pictured below, at left) where he was also headquartered. The Ratliff Tavern was torn down in the 1930s to make room for the Pikeville City Park pictured above.

The following month, Gen. Garfield and his troops experienced what Pikeville residents were all to familiar with: flooding. In a letter to his wife, Garfield wrote:

Ratliff Tavern; source info.

The house where I am staying, which is sixty feet above the usual level of the river, is now surrounded. A wild river roars around it on all sides. Two large steamboats are up in the principal street of the village. Houses, stacks of wheat and hay, gigantic trees, saw-logs, fences, and all things that float are careening by with fearful velocity.

The flood left Union troops without supplies and they were forced to re-encamp on higher ground. The flood was so mighty that it even left two steamboats in the streets of Pikeville.

Garfield would leave the military for service in Congress where he would serve several terms before supporting his friend, John Sherman (the Treasury Secretary and brother of Civil War General William T. Sherman). President Grant was pursuing a return to the White House for an unprecedented third term as President, an outcome which many opposed. On the 36th ballot, Republicans picked the ‘dark horse’ James A. Garfield as their nominee for President. Garfield would go on to defeat General Winfield Scott Hancock in November. As history would have it, the Garfield administration was short-lived as he was assassinated only months after being sworn in.


Sources: Eastern Kentucky Battles; Johnson County History

NoD: National Horse Show, Kentucky edition

2011 Alltech National Horse Show - Lexington, Ky.
Juniors’ event at the Nationals – Kentucky Horse Park, Lexington, Ky.

You want proof that the 2010 World Equestrian Games was a boost for Kentucky’s economy, bringing in tourists and their pocketbooks? Look no further than the National Horse Show. The pedigree of the NHS is long and mighty.

The first NHS was held in 1883 at the original Madison Square Gardens in New York City, where it remained (through various versions of MSG) until about eight years ago. It was too cost prohibitive to hold the event in Manhattan, so it was moved to Syracuse. That was a losing proposition.

In January of this year, it was announced that the Kentucky Horse Park’s $40 million indoor arena, Alltech Arena, would host the 2011 Alltech National Horse Show. For the past few days, Nov. 2-6, competitors from around the country have gathered in Lexington show their jumping skills aboard their noble steeds.

By all accounts, the show is a success. It is anticipated that additional breeds will be added next year and that discussions are underway with the world equestrian sports body, FEI, to bring a Nations Cup back to the NHS. In a Nations Cup, national teams bid for top bidding.

Inside the Alltech Arena, a trade show circled the concourse with trade vendors and a small-scale experience of the Alltech Experience and the Kentucky Experience – both tremendous educational opportunities that premiered at WEG. Early on Saturday afternoon, the lil’ Kaintuckeean and I witnessed juniors Maclay and jumping competitions. Though attendance was small, these were not the featured events. It was still a great opportunity for the lil’ Kaintuck to see some horses, though!

More photographs from the National Horse Show are available on flickr.

kernel: The last hurrah for perennial candidate Gatewood Galbraith?

Gatewood for Governor - Lexington, Ky.
Gatewood Signage at Short & Mill – Lexington, Ky.

A discussion of Kentucky’s recent political history would be incomplete without discussion of perennial candidate Gatewood Galbraith. Having recently announced that this year’s gubernatorial race is his last run for public office, I felt it fitting to profile Gatewood during this — his final race.

His candidacies are legendary. Many Kentuckians – especially those in Lexington – remember Gatewood standing at a corner in his ubiquitous hat, sportcoat, and tie waving to the honks, cheers, and sometimes jeers of his fellow citizenry. If you haven’t witnessed Gatewood’s friendly smile, it most likely will be somewhere near Commonwealth Stadium on Saturday before the UK-Ole Miss game.

A “People’s candidate,” Galbraith has long believed that a government which governs best, governs least. Applying this principle over both social and fiscal issues, Gatewood famously said during his 1995 bid for governor that the government needs to stay out of “our bedrooms, our bloodstreams, our bladders, our brains, our businesses and our back-pockets.” His views are even more fully expressed in his book, The Last Free Man in America.

I remember the 1995 race because of the long delay caused during the Fourth of July parade – themed “United Nations” – which Gatewood interrupted and was subsequently arrested. Also somewhat controversial is his pro-legalization of marijuana stance which has caused many to ignore his overall platform.

Yet a Gatewood candidacy is second only to Fancy Farm in terms of Kentucky political traditions. This is his fifth bid for Governor (1991, 1995, 1999, 2007 and 2011). He has also run for attorney general, agriculture commissioner and twice for Congress. He admits to being a perennial candidate by saying that “Kentucky has perennial problems.”

Whatever happens in next week’s election, I – for one – will be sad to see the end of candidate Gatewood Galbraith.

walkLEX: Bakery repurposed as local art gallery Institute 193

Institute 193 - Lexington, Ky.
Institute 193 – Lexington, Ky.

Over time, the various owners of the building at 193 North Limestone St. in Lexington rehabilitated the structure from its former self as as a bakery-turned-warehouse to become an art gallery. Today, Institute 193, www.institute193.org,  is a trampoline for local artists into larger markets. But the building has a long, yeasty history.

The building is of the Georgian Revival style, circa 1915, and is attributed to the Lexington architect Martin Geertz. It was originally home to “one of the best bakeries in the state” – operated by Mr. Muth (originally of Cincinnati). Before having this structure erected, Mr. Muth owned the Star Stream Bakery at 338 West Short Street.  It would seem that by 1925, Mr. Muth had retired as he then bought a 56 acre farm near Muir Station.

Institute 193 - Lexington, Ky.In Lexington’s competitive baking market, Muth’s facility would not sit idle for long. L.R. Drury’s bakery, a half block south at 148 North Limestone, had opened in 1914 as a small retail outlet emphasizing cakes and catering. Deliveries were made by bicycle. It was said that Drury’s was a “modern, high-class service bakery [where] modern machinery, best flour, butter and milk are used.” Filling the void left by Muth’s departure, Drury expands his operations to the southwest corner of Limestone and Second Streets. Cake and pastry operations remained at 148 North Limestone until 1930 when they were moved to 193 North Limestone bringing all of Drury’s baking operations under one roof. By the following year, Drury had “eight automobile trucks” delivering baked goods around central Kentucky. [*]

Institute 193’s gallery is perfectly designed to host a solo show. An intimate space, its white walls are plain but the historic feel of the building with its punched tin ceiling give the room texture.

Institute 193 - Lexington, Ky.The work of Mike Goodlett, currently on display, evokes a visceral response. Trained in Cincinnati, this Wilmore artist uses a variety of mediums to separately reveal the fetishes of sexuality and cigarettes.

Our Blue Grass Trust deTour also explored the winding labyrinth of rooms that make up the underbelly of this and other adjoining buildings, including the restaurant le Deauville. Part of a Duhrkop Baking Company oven is still in the building’s basement. Duhrkop, a New York company founded in 1887, was a leading oven manufacturer for bakeries around the country with its first installation at the Fleishchmann Bread Company. These rarely explored rooms are a glimpse into a forgotten past.

Additional photographs of Institute 193 and the building can be viewed on flickr.