NoD: Camp Nelson Bridge (v. 2.0)

Camp Nelson
Abandoned Camp Nelson Bridge – Jessamine/Garrard Counties, Ky.

Three bridges have crossed the Kentucky River at Camp Nelson and the pictured bridge was the second installation having replaced a double-barreled covered bridge that  had carried travelers since 1838. Today, this abandoned bridge has been replaced by the less-scenic bridge that has carried four lanes of  US-27 traffic since 1971.

This steel truss bridge features two Pennsylvania-style trusses which span 275 feet over the Kentucky River; with abutments and approaches, the length is extended to 543 feet. When the waters of the Kentucky River are lowest, the bridge rises 60 feet above them. Over 600,000 pounds of structural steel were used for construction, including the 15,000 rivets connecting the I-beams. [*] Bridges are impressive structures and version 2.0 of the Camp Nelson trilogy doesn’t disappoint.

As with all things abandoned, it is a little eerie to walk onto the bridge — completely alone. The rusting trusses and fauna growing through cracks and clumps of dirt give a certain “Life After People” aura. But the spectacular views from this bridge, and the perspective of the three different Camp Nelson bridges is in itself a walk through history.

Floyd County Courthouse – Prestonsburg, Ky.

Floyd County Courthouse – Prestonsburg, Ky.
Downtown Prestonsburg is a nice, peaceful place. This courthouse is the fifth courthouse to stand in Prestonsburg Built in the late 1960s to replace an old brick courthouse, it was recently replaced by a judicial center.

For decades, Prestonsburg was the political capital of the eastern part of Kentucky. It was the seat of a county that originally covered all of the eastern portion of the state. [*] In 1968, Senator Robert F. Kennedy spoke at the pictured Floyd County Courthouse while on his tour of eastern Kentucky. [*]

Solomon DeRossett, an early settler in the area, established a fur-trading post in the area. Trapping and shipping animal skins and pelts from Prestonsburg to customers worldwide. One of DeRossett’s best customers was Napoleon’s France, manufacturing bearskins into hats for the Grenadier Guards.

NoD: Lewis County’s Union Monument

Lewis County Courthouse
Union Monument at the Lewis County Courthouse – Vanceburg, Ky.

One hundred seven young men from Lewis County died answering Lincoln’s call to “preserve the Union.” They were not alone. Over two million Northerners took up arms against their Southern brethren for a conflict that would last four years and cost the lives of hundreds of thousands. In Kentucky – a border state with dueling state governments and its star being counted on the flags of both Union and Confederacy – the War pitted brother against brother.

After the war, the practice of erecting statues and monuments in memory of the brave soldiers began. We see them in cemeteries, in parks and on the lawns of courthouses. But if you look closely at those erected by public subscription on the lawns of courthouses, you will find that only one in Kentucky is dedicated to the soldiers of the Union Army.

The Union Monument on the lawn of the Lewis County Courthouse, Vanceburg, is not just the only such memorial in Kentucky — it is the only such memorial south of the Mason-Dixon Line! All other Union memorials are located in cemeteries with the fallen.

Thirty feet tall and cut from limestone, it was also the first Civil War monument with a statue erected in the Commonwealth. The soldier, clutching his musket with both hands, wears a kepi cap, cape and winter coat.

Erected in 1884, the distinction of this monument as the only such monument south of the Mason-Dixon Line evinces Lewis County’s strong Union leanings. The following is inscribed upon this monument to the fallen: “The War for the Union was Right, Everlasting Right; And the War Against the Union was Wrong, Forever Wrong.”

Sources, inter alia, National Register.

kernel: Kentucky Architectural Photo Gallery

Tebbs Photo Gallery
Robert W. Tebbs Photographs at the Lexington Public Library – Central Branch Gallery

I just happened upon an excellent collection of photographs in the gallery at the downtown branch of the Lexington Public Library. The photos were taken by the British architectural photographer Robert W. Tebbs (1875-1945). All are of excellent examples of Kentucky architecture, though not all of the photographed structures remain. It really is a collection worth seeing! Presented by the Filson Historical Society and Clay Lancaster’s Warwick Foundation, the highlight evening will be next Friday’s gallery hop (June 17, 5:00 – 8:00). But you can enjoy Tebbs’ work during regular library hours anytime through June 19th.

The Library often has a great collection in its gallery; check out the remaining 2011 schedule.

Johnson County Courthouse – Paintsville, Ky.

Johnson County Courthouse – Paintsville, Ky.

Okay, folks. I was completely, totally lost on this one. I headed into downtown Paintsville and searched desperately for a courthouse for half an hour. No such luck. Ultimately, I did find the new judicial center (pictured above). The judicial center is nice and all, but is built right out on the bypass next to a jail. So as much as I was impressed by the Greek Revival structure, I was a little taken aback by the location.

I’ve always wondered about the name “Paintsville.” Turns out that it is pretty simple. The town draws its name from a nearby creek and early settlers found Indian drawings painted on the tree trunks along the banks of the creek.

walkLEX: Graham Cottage

Graham Cottage - Lexington, Ky.
Graham Cottage – Lexington, Ky.

In antebellum Kentucky, education was a priority for many. In Hustonville in 1854, James M. Hocker formed a Christian College for women. It was the first all-female college this side of the Appalachian Mountains. After the Civil War, he relocated his “Hocker College” to a six acre tract on the west side of North Broadway in Lexington [*]. There, he called upon another leader in the Stone-Campbell restoration movement, Robert Graham, to assume the presidency of the institution. The residence pictured above was constructed in that year, 1869, as the college president’s home. Graham resigned in 1875 and, following a large donation, the college was renamed Hamilton College (I bet you can guess the donor’s last name!?).

By 1889, Transylvania University had taken an interest in the small college near its own campus and, in 1903, Transy converted Hamilton College into its own junior college before dissolving the institution entirely in 1932. The main building of Hocker/Hamilton was an impressive four-story brick Italianate that was repurposed as a women’s dormitory at Transy until the structure was demolished in 1962.

Today, the only remaining part of the Hocker/Hamilton College days is the Graham Cottage. Hardly a cottage, this stately home would serve as the home of four presidents of Transylvania University before the University began using the Cottage as an alumni house.

Speaking of alumni, one notable alumni of Hamilton College was Maurine Dallas Watkins, the scriptwriter who created the characters Roxie Hart and Velma Kelley for Chicago in 1926. Of course, the story was remade into a film in 1942 (with Ginger Rogers) and readapted as a musical (and a blockbuster film) in the past decade.

The Graham Cottage was described by Clay Lancaster as an “interesting antiquity” [*] and is one of three truly historic buildings standing on the campus of Transylvania University, the others being Old Morrison and the Patterson Cabin.

This post was republished on KyForward.com on June 8, 2011.

NoD: A Kentucky of a Place

IMG_0365
Looking across the Kentucky River into Fayette County – Madison Co., Ky.

I decided to get off of Interstate 75 as I approached Lexington from the south. Good decision. I wanted to enter into Fayette County using the old Clays Ferry Bridge, but I discovered a lot more. I took the “Clays Ferry” exit in northern Madison County and began zig-zagging my descent toward the Kentucky River on the old Lexington Road.

And then I saw the scenic overlook. I pulled to the side of the road and remembered why an 18th century Baptist preacher, when asked to describe heaven, said that “Heaven is a Kentucky of a place.” I’ve recognized this before, but never so close to Lexington.

The Kentucky River was high and clearly visible with the late-afternoon sun glistening off its pool. Everything else – verdant abundance on the hills and descending into the river valley. Aside from the ribbon of pavement at my feet, there was no indication that this pristine spot had been touched.

Yes, the preacher-man surely was right: “Heaven is a Kentucky of a place.”

NoD: Honest Bill from Olive Hill

Honest Bill from Olive Hill - Carter County, Ky.
Plaque on Marker at Courthouse Square – Grayson, Ky.

As you know, politics in Kentucky is “the damnedest.” Which may be the only logical explanation behind the slogan used by William Jason Fields in each of his campaigns: “Honest Bill from Olive Hill.”

Born in Willard (Carter Co.), Ky. in 1874, Fields went on to serve Kentucky’s Ninth District in Congress from 1911 to 1923 when he resigned from Congress to assume the governorship in Frankfort. He was governor for one term, 1923-1927. When Fields left the governor’s mansion, he signed 148 pardons and spent much time after his governorship defending “the innocence of convicted-and-pardoned murderers, manslaughterers, robbers forgers, embezzlers, housebreakers, barn burners.” (Time, 12-27-1927).

So how “honest” was Bill? Well, he did have that unusually high number of pardons. And it is unclear what favors he offered when he received the Democratic nomination for and was elected governor in 1923. Interesting story: the party’s nominee died and runner-up, Alben Barkley, declined the nomination (he had decided to run for U.S. Senate, a good decision for the later Vice-President). So the party’s central committee selected Wm. Jason Fields as its nominee. Despite a factious Democratic Party, Fields garnered the support of the all-powerful Jockey Club, U.S. Senator A.O. Stanley, Louisville banker James B. Brown, and our good friend Billy Klair to secure his election. [*]

Although he issued too many pardons, engaged in nepotism and was nominated and elected through a series of back-room deals, he was still “Honest Bill from Olive Hill.” Well, ain’t politics the damnedest? But, hey… he did sign into law the creation of the Kentucky Parks System. Thanks, governor!

kernel: Liquor for One’s Own Comfort

I’m adding a new hashtag: kernels. Yes, occasionally I want to share a picture, a story, an epithet or an anecdote without the research and detail that comes with one of my NoDestination posts. So, I hope you enjoy these Kentucky kernels.

The Kentucky Court of Appeals (then Kentucky’s high court) made this declaration in Commonwealth v. Campbell, 133 Ky. 50, 63 (Ky. 1909), a case rising from the quashing of a warrant issued against Campbell for bringing more than a quart of booze into Nicholasville:

World Equestrian GamesThe right to use liquor for one’s own comfort, if the use is without direct injury to the public, is one of the citizen’s natural and inalienable rights, guaranteed to him by the Constitution, and cannot be abridged as long as the absolute power of a majority is limited by our present Constitution.

hat tip: @williamhadamsii