NoD: Louisa’s Wellman Hardware Epitomizes Victorian Architecture of Small Kentucky County Seat

Commercial District - Louisa, Ky.
Wellman Hardware – Louisa, Ky.

“Since 1879 because of you” reads the sign in front of the Wellman Hardware Store in the Louisa Commercial Historic District, though the Lawrence County business has been in different hands over its 130-plus year history.

The store was established by Augustus and Thomas Snyder. Thomas had arrived in Louisa in 1872 earning his keep primarily blacksmith shop but also engaging in general merchandise. The younger Augustus followed in 1876 from the family home in Barboursville, West Virginia and began to learn the blacksmithing trade from his elder brother. In 1879, they began to operate a hardware store which was finally incorporated some twenty years later. Both of the Snyder brothers became active in local civic and business activities, with Augustus Snyder spending a number of years as Louisa’s progressive mayor. During his term, Louisa was much improved with the paving of its streets and other public improvements.

Commercial District - Louisa, Ky.
Wellman Hardware – Louisa, Ky.

The hardware store, sold to E.E. Shannon around the turn of the century, remains in one of Louisa’s oldest commercial buildings and remains its oldest operating business. In 1919, Shannon sold the store to Lafe Wellman who renamed the now-Wellman Hardware Store. The exterior of this National Register-building has remained the same (sans a couple of additions not affecting the Main Street frontage), its original trim still present; the interior, however, assumed that of a modern hardware-store in the late 1980s.

The National Register form describes the building’s “salient features of original wood-framed storefronts, prominent ornamental metal molds at the second-story windows, and a pressed metal modillion cornice” to aptly conclude that “the building epitomizes the Victorian commercial architecture of a small county seat in Kentucky.”

Sources: Connelley’s History of Kentucky; Daily Independent; NRHP

NoD: Union Mill Bridge Down for the Count

Union Mill, Kentucky
An Overgrown Union Mill Bridge;
Photo by George W. Dean		 Site of the old Union Mill Bridge;

December 2011

In 1915, raging flood waters took from the Jessamine County community of Union Mill its covered bridge. The bridge connected the two sides of this community and provided a link between Nicholasville and the Valley View Ferry. Almost immediately, the Jessamine Fiscal Court awarded the contract for construction of a replacement bridge to Lexington’s Empire Bridge Company. The new bridge was to be of steel truss at a price was $2,697.

Spring 2010;
Photo by George W. Dean

About forty years later, the 1915 bridge was abandoned when the road was rerouted slightly downstream. For over fifty years, the abandoned bridge experienced rising and receding waters as well as an annual vegetation that nearly hid the bridge itself. But the years took its toll. Photos by Magistrate George W. Dean reveals only 2 1/2 feet of bridge above the water leaving an entire “roadbed” submerged for several days during the floods in the spring of 2010 (see photo at left).

Following the 2010 spring floods, local authorities discussed what could be done to restore and preserve this nearly century-old Jessamine County landmark. Any repair, however, would only prove to be a short-term fix. So costs and the lack of potential reuse left leadership with tied hands. With a new bridge over Little Hickman Creek just yards downstream, safety could not be ignored.

As a result, the last weekend in November 2011, witnessed the removal of that old truss bridge which had spanned the Little Hickman Creek for nearly a century.

Sources: George W. Dean emails; Jonathan Parrish emails; Municipal Journal

kernel: Kentucky’s Christmas Ornament Features the Governor’s Mansion

Governor's Mansion Christmas Ornament - Kentucky
2011 Commonwealth Christmas Ornament

Announced last month, the Commonwealth’s Division of Historic Properties annual Christmas ornament features the Governor’s Mansion this year. In a repeat of last year’s state capitol ornament, K&M Crafts of Kentucky (Campbellsville) was selected to craft this year’s ornament out of maple and cherry woods.

The ornament features a scale Governor’s Mansion atop a pedestal which features the state seal and the signatures of both Governor and First Lady Beshear. The Beaux Arts villa, inspired by Marie Antoinette’s La Petite Trianon, was completed in 1914.

Earlier this week, I ventured to Frankfort to pick up the above-ornament (pictured on our family tree). While there, I snapped this great panorama of the state capitol:

Kentucky State Capitol - Frankfort, Ky.
Kentucky State Capitol – Frankfort, Ky.
To All Kaintuckeeans… 
Merry Christmas!
(and Happy Holidays!)

KY360: Cheapside Park

I’ve profiled Cheapside Park, the old Courthouse, the John C. Breckinridge statue, the Fifth Third Bank pavilion, and other items before on #walkLEX. But I recently got a new iPhone app – Photosynth – and wanted to try it out (and probably use it often).

   


If you have an iPhone you should really consider getting this app — it’s free. Also,  let me know what you think!

walkLEX: Another Chapter Closing at Lexington’s Oldest Post Office

Metropol - Lexington, Ky.
Metropol at 307 West Short Street – Lexington, Ky.

Dr. John Shremly honored his uncle, Harry Schraemli, when he opened Metropol in 2000. This fine dining locale at 307 West Short Street has for eleven years offered delicious meals and fine drinks at its Harry’s Bar (named after Uncle Harry).

Schraemli, who passed in 1995, was renowned in Europe for his gastronomy. This master in the culinary world wrote numerous books and publications; his Meistermixer remains the “bartenders bible across Europe.” The European heritage of Metropol is easily visible from West Short as the building proudly displays the flags of France, Switzerland, Italy, and others alongside Old Glory.

307 W. Short St.
Bullock Collection

But the buildings themselves cannot be ignored as they have their own fantastic history. Constructed as a post office in 1836 (some records indicate construction occurred as early as 1825), 307 West Short is the oldest surviving post office in Lexington.

The first postmaster here, Joseph Ficklin, would later serve as counsel to Cuba under the nomination of President Polk. His “lively” house on High Street was home to Jefferson Davis during the future Confederate president’s years at Transylvania.

When the post office opened at West Short Street, the cost of postage was measured by the number of pages and the distance to be travelled. A three-page letter requiring a distance of 400 miles would cost 75¢ (in other words, in 175 years the cost of postage has decreased — no wonder the U.S. Postal Service is in trouble!). Of course, the cost may be attributed to the excellent customer service: the post office was then open from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. on weekdays and for an additional hour each Sunday morning.

The structure itself is a simple, two-story antebellum commercial building. Originally, the first floor frontage was almost entirely windows, but an  unfortunate renovation in 1971 covered this frontage with brick veneer as well as covering the remainder of the building with aluminum.

Metropol - Lexington, Ky.In 2009, Schremly expanded Metropol to include the neighboring structure to the west. There, the Hotel Drake Annex completed this island in what has become a sea of parking lot. The Annex was built ca.  1901 in the Queen Anne style. The Drake Hotel converted the Annex into a “liquor dispensary” after Prohibition. In former versions, the West Short Street hotel – which spanned the length of the block’s now empty parking lot – operated as both the Ashland House and the Reed Hotel. It became the Hotel Drake in 1926 and it then became an “infamous hangout for bookies and prostitutes.”The Drake was torn down in 1962. Of it, only this Annex remains.

Metropol merged these two buildings into a sizable, beautiful restaurant. But this Friday, Metropol will close its doors. Be sure to stop by and say hello.

Sources: BGT file; Metropol; NRHP; Walking Tour Brochure

kernel: Shryock Family Legendary in Kentucky Architecture

Historic Marker - Lexington, Ky.
Historic Marker #945 – Lexington, Ky.

The historic marker on the campus of Transylvania University’s campus describes the “Architects Shryock” as the “best known surname in Kentucky architecture.” The historic marker, #945 reads:

Best known surname in Kentucky architecture is Shryock.” Family home, erected by Matthias Shryock (1774-1833), here. Designed first Episcopal church in city, 1814, and Mary Todd Lincoln home on W. Main. Son, Cincinnatus, born here, 1816. First Presbyterian Church, built 1872, considered his best. Also designed many homes. Died, 1888. Both buried in Lexington. Over.

(Reverse) Another Shryock – Gideon, “father of Greek revival movement in Ky. architecture,” was also Matthias’ son. Fine example of his classic style is Old State House, Frankfort, Ky., 1829. He also designed Morrison Hall on the Transylvania campus here, 1830, Jefferson County Courthouse in Louisville, Arkansas State Capitol, Little Rock, 1830’s. Born here, 1802; buried Louisville, 1880.

This incredible family forever left its mark on Lexington and the entire Commonwealth, leaving behind a legacy of beautiful structures that have endured the generations. Their skill also greatly contributed to Lexington receiving the moniker “Athens of the West.”

I’ve profiled several examples of the Shryocks’ work:

There are a number of other Shryock-designed structures I haven’t yet profiled, including patriarch Matthias’ Mary Todd Lincoln House in Lexington. Matthias, in total, had ten children before he succumbed to the 1833 cholera epidemic.

walkLEX: Bellini’s Anchors a Block of Restoration

Bellini's deTour - Lexington, Ky.
West Main Street (123; 119-115; 111-107; 105-101) – Lexington, Ky.
(The Same Block in April 2010 and circa 1920)

Opposite Centrepasture has again become one of downtown Lexington’s grandest blocks. The block’s renaissance kicked off when Bellini’s opened in 2003. Its owners have restored the first floor of 115-119 West Main, a structure designed in the Italianate style by local architect Cincinnatus Shryock in 1869. This five-bay, three-story structure appears sufficient in height to be five stories. It is, however, its third floor ballroom that makes the structure so unique.

Bellini's deTour - Lexington, Ky.Surrounded on two-stories, the Shryock-designed building has beautiful round-top windows that allow an incredible amount of light onto the third floor ballroom. What is now a tremendous asset for Bellini’s, but the space is a reminder of the building’s original purpose. Atop is a French Second Empire Mansard roof that is incredibly unique for the region.

The building was built by the Odd Fellows fraternity and stands as a symbol of the optimism experienced in Lexington immediately following the Civil War when citizen’s concerns went from conflict to prosperity and the arts. And although the era provided Lexington with another opportunity to return to its former status as an Athens of the West, that train had already moved on to the larger cities. Still, Cincinnatus Shryock created a multi-use masterpiece. Wrote the Gazette: it was “one of the handsomest buildings in the state. The Odd Fellows retained the whole third floor … which has been subdivided so as to suit their purposes, clearing one large hall which has been fitted up most sumptuously and with exquisite taste!”

Bellini's deTour - Lexington, Ky.The first floor, marked by cast iron Corinthian columns, contained two separate storefronts flanking a stairwell to the upper levels. Law offices occupied the second floor and, as noted, the Odd Fellows Lodge the third. Today, the second floor is half vacant and half apartments with Bellini’s hoping for the opportunity to add additional “large party” space on the second floor. The eastern front, 115 West Main, once housed Skuller’s Jewelry for the better portion of the 20th century. Although Skuller’s closed in 1984, its name remains as inlaid tile hidden just below the mat outside the front door.

Skuller's Clock - Lexington, Ky. Skuller's Clock - Lexington, Ky.

Skuller’s Clock, built by Pennsylvania’s Brown Street Clock Company, was removed as part of the Main Street beautification project with hopes of restoring it. At fourteen feet tall, the two-faced clocked atop a fluted iron column is a Lexington landmark in its own right. When it was removed last year, it was announced that the repair costs would be approximately $25,000. The clock remains mothballed, but to the left are pictures of how the streets cape has appeared over the years with the circa 1913 Skuller’s Clock.

Other buildings in this half of the West Main Street block (as pictured at top) are 123 West Main Street which had its façade completely restored to its 1920s appearance for the new nightclub, Trust. On the other side of Bellini’s is 107-111 West Main Street which also experienced a façade restoration in the past year. This building houses Sunrise Bakery and another Bellini’s banquet hall. At block’s end, 101-105 West Main Street has always maintained a unique façade with a fantastic terra cotta roof; it was announced earlier this week that the new owner, Dudley Webb, will restore this building as well.


This block of West Main Street contains a great concentration of historic buildings that together create a very interesting, wonderful streetscape with the Cincinnatus Shryock creation as its central masterpiece. 


Additional photos of the Blue Grass Trust deTour to Bellini’s are available on flickr. 

Sources: LHL; LHL; local.lexpublib.org; NRHP

kernel: More Kentucky Sites Make the National Register

Parkview Motel – Bardstown, Ky.
(Photo from NRHP Application)

The day after Thanksgiving, the National Register of Historic Places accepted three Kentucky sites from the thirteen recommended by the Kentucky Heritage Council (eight were accepted the previous week). This round of approvals includes a school in Covington, a historic district in Harrodsburg and another hotel/motel in Bardstown.

KENTON COUNTY (# 11000791)
LaSalette Academy,
702 Greenup St., Covington,  
MERCER COUNTY (# 11000795)
Lexington and Cane Run Historic District
E. Lexington & Cane Run Sts., Harrodsburg
NELSON COUNTY (# 11000798)
Kurtz Restaurant and Bardstown–Parkview Motel–Office,
418 E. Stephen Foster Ave., Bardstown

Also, on December 19, the Kentucky Historic Preservation Review Board will consider eight additional nominations for recommendation to the National Register. More information about these eight sites, which includes Lexington’s Leestown Road VA Hospital, is available on the Kentucky Heritage Council website.

NoD: UK Art Museum Can “See Blue”

UK Art Museum - Lexington, Ky.
Gallery at the UK Art Museum – Lexington, Ky.

If you are in any way affiliated or connected to the University of Kentucky, you are aware of their “see blue” campaign. Even if your only connection to UK is watching basketball games, you have undoubtedly seen the commercial which morphs the school, the city and the world blue. Well, in the words of Oscar Wilde, we are seeing “art imitate life” through an exhibit at the University of Kentucky Art Museum at the Singletary Center.

Through January 22, works from UK’s permanent collection have been turned into an exhibit centered on (you guessed it) blue. It has been many years since I last ventured into the UK Art Museum which is tucked in a corner of the Singletary Center for the Arts, but I recently ventured in for a holiday party.

Because of its hidden location, few know about the UK Art Museum. Even so, it has been part of the Singletary Center since the SCFA opened in 1979. (Note: The Singletary name was not applied until the late 1980s.) Over the past ten years, it has often been discussed that the Art Museum should take a more prominent role as a local attraction. Years ago, a move to the old courthouse on Main Street was contemplated.

UK Art Museum - Lexington, Ky.
Portrait of Daniel Boone
by John Wesley

The “See Blue”special collection contained a few great pieces that caught my eye. First and foremost is John Wesley’s Portrait of Daniel Boone, a 1962 modern twist on the 1852 famous engraving of Kentucky’s frontiersman. Wesley’s interpretation looked toward the legend of Boone, which he found to be an “outsized… one-dimensional caricature, a flat depiction drained of color.”

Wesley, born in California, is typically genred in the “pop art” category and is is best known for his appropriation of cartoons like Blondie and Popeye.

I agree with the Museum’s suggestion that “it is especially meaningfully to “see blue” in a portrait of Kentucky frontiersman Daniel Boone.”

UK Art Museum - Lexington, Ky.
UK Basketball Game Between
UK and St. Johns, December 17, 1977
by Leroy Neiman

Another “see blue” work which I noted was a Leroy Neiman oil depicting a 1977 basketball game between the UK Wildcats and St. John’s University. Of course, UK has recently played and handily beaten St. Johns which was a repeat of this 102-72 affair featuring Kentucky greats Jack Givens, James Lee, Kyle Macy, Mike Phillips and Rick Robey.

This oil was exquisite and the short brush strokes gave it a fervor that would have been present during the UKIT and throughout the season as our Cats would go on to a record of 30-2 and a National Championship (defeating Duke)  under the helm of Joe B. Hall.

Neiman’s work, primarily depicting scenes of sport and leisure, are well known to the American eye.

There are a multitude of other fantastic works in this collection and elsewhere in the museum. More information about the UK Art Museum can be found on its website, http://www.uky.edu/ArtMuseum/.