Happy Birthday, America!

Happy Independence Day
Fourth of July Fireworks, 2010 – Lexington, Ky.

I am taking the holiday weekend off to celebrate Our Independence from the tyranny of George III. There are a bunch of great things going on throughout the state – so celebrate. If you are in Lexington, I’ll probably be there to because they really know how to celebrate the Fourth of July!

Check out these pictures from last year’s celebrations!

NoD: The Old Bath County Jail (part deux)

Old Jail of Bath County, Owingsville, Ky.
Old Bath County Jail – Owingsville, Ky.

This is an update to a prior post dated April 11, 2011, on the Old Bath County Jail in which I could not confirm that the pictured structure was in fact the old Bath County Jail. In doing research on an upcoming post, I found information confirming that this beautiful structure was Bath County’s jail.
From the National Register (Owingsville Commercial District and Courthouse Square):

The  late-19th-century Bath County Jail  (see photos  6,7  and  site 5)  reverberates, in a  sense,  the massing of  the  courthouse.  This  two-story,  hip-rolled building is also  of brick construction,  and  its  centered square tower has  a pyramidal roof  each side being broken by a pedimented dormer.  The boxed  cornices  of  the building and  tower are  supported by modillions.  Windows of  the  first  floor have pedimented hoodmolds while  those of  the  second are  flat.  To  the  south  is  a  one-story polygonal addition,  and  at  the  rear  is  a  two-story,  shed-roofed appendage.

Bath County’s current jailer, Palmer “Jaybird” Crouch, has held the position since 1973. For the first two years, inmates were still held in this old jail (today, inmates are housed in the Montgomery County Jail). Crouch and his wife resided in the jailer’s quarters attached to the old jail and Crouch’s wife would prepare meals for the inmates until the state determined that the structure was unfit as a jail. [*]

walkLEX: Fayette National Bank Building (Lexington’s First Skyscraper)

Lexington's First Skyscraper (Ky.)
Fayette National Bank Building – Lexington, Ky.

When a now-ex-brother-in-law from New York City arrived for the first time in Lexington, he exclaimed: “You have tall buildings, too!” Whether this was an insult or a complement, I do not know. But it is true that a skyline is one attribute that separates a town from a city. In April of 1912, the directors of the Fayette National Bank Building voted to erect a fifteen story skyscraper as its new principal office. Lexington, no longer a town, could now call itself a city. While the skyscraper was under construction, the Lexington Leader wrote:

Towering 225 feet above the level of the sidewalk, the new fifteen-story building now being erected by the Fayette National Bank as its permanent home at the northeast corner of Main and Upper streets, a photograph of which, made from the architect’s drawing, is presented on this page of the Leader, will be the tallest and most imposing business structure in Kentucky outside of Louisville. [3/23/1913].

The building remains among the ten tallest in Lexington. It replaced part of Jordan’s Row (North Upper) and the old Higgins Block (Main Street) that housed the old Fayette National Bank (see this picture from 1887) since 1899. The bank’s history, however, dates to 1870.

Of course, the Bank couldn’t occupy all fifteen floors itself! It hired the real estate firm of Chinn & Lawless in June 1913 to rent the 220 offices that would comprise the remainder of the building. The real estate firm’s principal, Asa Chinn, is well-known for his photo collection that chronicles downtown Lexington circa 1920.

The Fayette National Bank Building was itself designed by the American architectural firm McKim, Mead & White of New York City, a most-prestigious firm. Other examples of their work include the 1903 expansion of the White House, which included the West Wing, New York’s old Penn Station, and the New York Public Library.

The Fayette National Bank Building is in the Beaux-Arts classical design. Four bays carry over through the three tiers of the building. Its base, the first four stories, are of Bedford limestone with 2 pairs of Ionic columns stretching three floors to create an impressive, yet approachable Main Street frontage. The top four floors of the building act as a cap, while the middle floors are a non-descript shaft. It would be the only skyscraper constructed in Lexington until the late 1960s when the University of Kentucky erected two residential towers (1967) and the Patterson Office Tower (1968).

Wrote the Lexington Herald, April 27, 1912: The Fayette National Bank Building “will be the highest and most pretentious of the office buildings of the city. It will occupy a commanding position opposite the courthouse, and will be a decided acquisition to Main Street.” And today, it remains a “decided acquisition” for Lexington’s Main Street. In 1931, the Fayette National Bank merged with another financial institution to become the First National Bank. The building takes either moniker.

This post appeared on KyForward on July 6, 2011.

Bibliography
Lexington Herald, Lexington Leader (local.lexpublib.org)
National Register, “Fayette National Bank Building

Morgan County Courthouse – West Liberty, Ky.

Morgan County Courthouse – West Liberty, Ky.
(Photo: Nate Kissel)

Morgan County has long been known as “the Bluegrass County of Eastern Kentucky,” due to its lush mountain valleys which are suitable for agricultural use. Others have described the county’s location as being where the “coal fields meet the outer Bluegrass.” The county seat, West Liberty, is so named because at the time of its incorporation, Pikeville (which lies to the East) was to be named Liberty. The town that is now Liberty, Ky. is in Casey County, in the south-central portion of the Commonwealth.

This courthouse is quite beautiful. It sits in the center of town and was built in 1907. It is the fourth courthouse on this site and is on the National Historic Register.

walkLEX: Downtown’s Little Green Camel

Directional Marker
The Zero Mile Marker – Lexington, Ky.

Where the once mighty Phoenix Hotel stood, the Phoenix Park “rose from the ashes” of the old hotel and failed World Coal Center development. In the northwest corner of the park, at the corner of East Main Street and South Limestone, a barefooted traveler looks eastward from his perch atop his camel. With his heavy bags, this Bedouin traveler makes no progress despite giving great perspective to others.

When driving on interstates and highways, do you wonder how the transportation authorities determine how many miles it is to Lexington? With Lexington’s city limits extending to the county line, the distance would vary depending on the direction of your approach. A constant is needed and this camel is that constant. It also is the point that determines whether a Lexington road is east or west, north or south. It is the center of Lexington. Sort of.

This supposed constant has been located in three different locations around downtown Lexington. Originally, a granite marker was dedicated by the Lexington Automobile Association on November 20, 1926, in front of the grand Union Station on Main Street (at Walnut, now MLK Blvd, St.). The Bedouin and his camel atop the granite stone was a gift from William Ingram, the then-owner of the Lexington Granite Company, who was the artist who created the bronze statue.

In 1961, the Union Station was demolished and the zero mile marker was removed to the courthouse lawn. The marker was again moved in 1990 to its present location, though its base (and the language on it) was replaced. Removing the language which mirrored the Washington, DC zero-mile marker, “Starting Point from Lexington On All Highways” to include a reference only to the “Zero Milestone,” the marker also boasts its new location: “Phoenix Park.”

This post appeared on KyForward on July 11, 2011.

Bibliography
Art Inventories Catalog
Lexington Herald-Leader (local.lexpublib.org

Martin County Courthouse – Inez, Ky.

Inez is a beautiful mountain town. In fact, it was once named Eden, but that had to change because another Kentucky town had already taken the name.

This courthouse was built from 1938 to 1941. It’s the fourth one built here. Inez lies only 21 miles east of Paintsville, and is one of the smallest county seats in the state. Population in 1990 was 511, according to the Kentucky Almanac.

NoD: How Horses Found Lexington

Vanceburg Streetscape
Historic Marker #205 – Vanceburg, Ky.

Just outside Vanceburg in Lewis County, where the Salt Lick Creek meets the Ohio River, is a historic marker, “Route for Horses and Cattle.” The names and date on this historic marker reveal to the careful reader an important history. The marker reads:

In 1775, Col. Robert Patterson, Wm. McConnell, David Perry and Stephen Lowry brought the first horses (9) and cattle (14) into northern Kentucky. Animals were brought by boat from Ft. Pitt and driven overland from here to the early inland settlements.

For those who read of the Patterson Cabin, you know the importance of Col. Robert Patterson. William McConnell, for whom Lexington’s McConnell Springs was named, is another key leader in early Kentucky history. Yes, these men would go on to establish much of the Bluegrass. And they brought with them the first horses and cattle into northern Kentucky. OK, these may not be the ancestors of Man-O-War or Seabiscuit, but the species that has so contributed to our state and it image first arrived by way of boat from Pittsburgh near this spot in Vanceburg.

walkLEX: Robert Patterson Cabin at Transylvania University

Patterson Cabin - Lexington, Ky.
Patterson Cabin – Lexington, Ky.

On Third Street, just east of Broadway, is a fantastic log cabin that dates to 1783. If this date is correct, the cabin would be one year older than the “oldest house in Lexington” – the Adam Rankin House. In Lexington: Heart of the Bluegrass, the claim is disputed altogether: the Patterson Cabin was likely not the first cabin built outside the blockhouse, but was one of about 30 cabins built around the same time. Still, it is the only surviving cabin… so symbolically, it is the first.

The cabin itself was built by and belonged to pioneer Robert Patterson who was among those who settled Royal Springs (Georgetown), Lexington, and later, Cincinnati (Ohio). Born in Pennsylvania, Patterson was only 22 years old when he set out with a group to explore the wilderness. Leaving Fort Pitt (Pittsburgh) in 1775, the group ultimately established a fort which would become Georgetown. Patterson went to the fort at Harrodsburg before returning to Fort Pitt for additional ammunition in 1776.

Patterson Cabin - Lexington, Ky.After returning to Kentucky, he led a group of 25 men in 1779 to construct a blockhouse which would become the basis for Lexington. Four years later, Patterson felt it sufficiently safe to erect a cabin outside the walls of the blockhouse for himself and his growing family (not that the blockhouse would provide much further protection; it was torn down in 1783) [Lexington Leader, 5/25/1951]. It is unclear how long Patterson lived in the cabin, but we do know that he and his wife (married in 1780) had eleven children.

In 1782, Patterson was second-in-command at the Battle of Blue Licks, a bloody battle which he survived. In 1788, Patterson formed a partnership in which he received a one-third ownership of the town site of Cincinnati, Ohio. But Patterson did not relocate to Cincinnati; he continued to serve Kentucky in various political roles until 1800 (his political career had begun in 1781).

Patterson sold his Kentucky landholdings and moved to Dayton in the same year that Ohio achieved statehood, 1803. His cabin followed in 1901.

That’s right! According to a 1901 announcement in the Bourbon News, “The old log cabin…has been purchased by John H. Patterson, President of the National Cash Register Company, and is being removed to Dayton, Ohio.” The Lexington Leader confirmed:

The work of tearing down and loading the old Patterson cabin on the cars was completed yesterday, and the car was started last night to Dayton, where the old structure will be re-erected near the scene of Col. Patterson’s conflict with the Indians, on the Pickaway plains. [10/9/1901]

On May 5, 1906, the Lexington Leader followed up on the old Lexington landmark:

John H. Patterson, of Dayton, O., the famous National Cash Register man, has just issued an attractive brochure in gray and gold, which tells the story of the historic log cabin built by his ancestors in Lexington over a century ago, which he bought a few years and removed to Dayton, and rebuilt on a part of the ground adjoining his splendid home in the suburbs of that city.

Kaintuckeeans rejoice – the cabin is back! The City Commisioners of Dayton voted to return the cabin to its origin: Lexington. Transylvania College would be the recipient and the old cabin was relocated to its present location [Lexington Herald-Leader, 5/18/1939]. Transylvania was a fitting place for the Cabin as it rests on part of Patterson’s original 400 acre tract of Lexington. Patterson also was a trustee of the college.

In 1951, a great restoration of the cabin occurred as a joint effort of Transylvania University, the State Highway Department and the Kentucky Historical Society. As one can imagine, several of the old logs had rotted through. Timber was felled from the Natural Bridge area and transported to the cabin for repair. [Lexington Leader, 7/16/1951]. Another restoration followed in 1976 to this great landmark of Lexington.

You can see the rest of my pictures of the Patterson Cabin on flickr.


This post was republished by KyForward.com on June 23, 2011.

Bibliography
Kentucky Digital Newspaper Program
Kentucky Encyclopedia, “Patterson, Robert
Lexington Herald-Leader/Leader from local.lexpublib.org

walkLEX: Maxwell Place

Each month, the Bluegrass Trust for Historic Preservation offers a deTour to visit a local historic site that has been well-preserved and restored. Please join us on our next deTour. Details on Facebook

Maxwell Place - Lexington, Ky.
Maxwell Place – Lexington, Ky.

On a very warm afternoon in early June, we gathered on the circular driveway of a brick Italianate villa nestled in the center of the UK campus – right between the Guignol Theatre and the Chem-Phys Building. While architecturally unique and impressive in its own right, Maxwell Place particularly stands out between its mid-20th century neighbors.

Our guide was none other than First Lady Patsy Todd – a wonderful woman who, with her husband President Lee Todd, have led the University of Kentucky since 2001. One of the couple’s first tasks upon arriving at Maxwell Place in 2001 was to have the hedges that surrounded the property removed, allowing visitors, including students, to wander through the grounds. It was a big change welcomed by the students!

Maxwell Place is a storied place in Lexington’s history. Its name comes from Maxwell Springs – a natural spring that was one of three that crossed near the property before feeding the Town Branch of the Elkhorn Creek. The present Guignol Theatre rests above Maxwell Springs and some memory of the old water features exists in the low-lying areas just south of the University’s Student Center.  Henry Clay once said, “No man can call himself a gentleman of Kentucky until he has watered his horse at Maxwell Springs.”

Maxwell Springs received its name from the area’s landowner, John Maxwell. Maxwell was one of Lexington’s earliest pioneers and, it is said, he named the original encampment at McConnell Springs “Lexington” after the recent Revolutionary War victory. With a 1,000 acre tract acquired from fellow pioneer Robert Patterson, Maxwell owned much of what became southeeast Lexington.

During the Civil War, the present-day University campus was occupied by Federal troops and its trees were felled for heating fuel. The owner of the land, the Maxwell Springs Company, couldn’t keep up its payments during the War and in 1870 the entire parcel was sold in a judicial sale.

The “most active and influential” of city councilmen, Dennis Mulligan, led the City of Lexington to acquire the majority of the land at the sale for use as a City Park, while he individually purchased a narrow strip of land on Rose Street. Mulligan, it should be noted, was an Irish Catholic political boss and many believe it was his political machine which boss Billy Klair would later steer and perfect.

On this narrow strip, Mulligan built for his son a wedding gift: Maxwell Place. The son, James Hilary Mulligan, would serve in a number of political offices in Kentucky, in Washington and abroad. As Speaker of the Kentucky House, Mulligan would retain the services of a young Billy Klair as his page. Mulligan is best remembered, however, for a poetic speech he delivered at the old Phoenix Hotel in Lexington in 1902 entitled, In Kentucky . A copy of the poem hangs in the library at Maxwell Place.

Lexington, vying for the state university and facing strong competition from a Bowling Green bid, offered its old Maxwell Springs land and the rest is University of Kentucky history. The Mulligan family sold its 13 acres, including Maxwell Place, to the University in 1917 for $40,000.

The original architect of Maxwell Place is unknown, though it is believed to have been either Thomas Boyd of Pittsburgh, Pa. or Phelix L. Lundin of Lexington. The two-and-a-half Italianate has been added to and remodeled throughout the years, but many of its original features remain intact. One of its most iconic additions is the arts-and-crafts pergola that stretches from the residence to the circular drive.

Maxwell Place has been the home to many University of Kentucky presidents during its service to the University. It has also been the host destination for many visitors and dignitaries, including First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt who stayed at house in 1934. Despite its storied past, Maxwell Place faced its critics: in the late 1960s, Maxwell Place was slated for demolition as part of the University’s development plan. Fortunately, an effort to preserve the historic structure succeeded so that we can enjoy this property today. Soon Eli Capilouto, the 12th University of Kentucky President, will call Maxwell Place home.

You can check out more pictures of Maxwell Place on my flickr account.

Bibliography
Bossism and Reform in a Southern City: Lexington, Kentucky, 1880-1940
Kentucky Encyclopedia, “John Maxwell” and “Maxwell Springs
Lexington Herald, p. 1. Oct.18, 1967. (local.lexpublib.org)
National Register of Historic Places, “Maxwell Place”