The Kaintuckeean

NoD: Honest Bill from Olive Hill

Honest Bill from Olive Hill - Carter County, Ky.

Plaque on Marker at Courthouse Square – Grayson, Ky.

As you know, politics in Kentucky is “the damnedest.” Which may be the only logical explanation behind the slogan used by William Jason Fields in each of his campaigns: “Honest Bill from Olive Hill.”

Born in Willard (Carter Co.), Ky. in 1874, Fields went on to serve Kentucky’s Ninth District in Congress from 1911 to 1923 when he resigned from Congress to assume the governorship in Frankfort. He was governor for one term, 1923-1927. When Fields left the governor’s mansion, he signed 148 pardons and spent much time after his governorship defending “the innocence of convicted-and-pardoned murderers, manslaughterers, robbers forgers, embezzlers, housebreakers, barn burners.” (Time, 12-27-1927).

So how “honest” was Bill? Well, he did have that unusually high number of pardons. And it is unclear what favors he offered when he received the Democratic nomination for and was elected governor in 1923. Interesting story: the party’s nominee died and runner-up, Alben Barkley, declined the nomination (he had decided to run for U.S. Senate, a good decision for the later Vice-President). So the party’s central committee selected Wm. Jason Fields as its nominee. Despite a factious Democratic Party, Fields garnered the support of the all-powerful Jockey Club, U.S. Senator A.O. Stanley, Louisville banker James B. Brown, and our good friend Billy Klair to secure his election. [*]

Although he issued too many pardons, engaged in nepotism and was nominated and elected through a series of back-room deals, he was still “Honest Bill from Olive Hill.” Well, ain’t politics the damnedest? But, hey… he did sign into law the creation of the Kentucky Parks System. Thanks, governor!

kernel: Liquor for One’s Own Comfort

I’m adding a new hashtag: kernels. Yes, occasionally I want to share a picture, a story, an epithet or an anecdote without the research and detail that comes with one of my NoDestination posts. So, I hope you enjoy these Kentucky kernels.

The Kentucky Court of Appeals (then Kentucky’s high court) made this declaration in Commonwealth v. Campbell, 133 Ky. 50, 63 (Ky. 1909), a case rising from the quashing of a warrant issued against Campbell for bringing more than a quart of booze into Nicholasville:

The right to use liquor for one’s own comfort, if the use is without direct injury to the public, is one of the citizen’s natural and inalienable rights, guaranteed to him by the Constitution, and cannot be abridged as long as the absolute power of a majority is limited by our present Constitution.

hat tip: @williamhadamsii

Magoffin County Courthouse – Salyersville, Ky.

Magoffin County Courthouse – Salyersville, KY

Salyersville is an interesting place. It’s a nice little mountain town, but I was surprised to discover that this was the courthouse. It is apparently one of many courthouses to have been located on this site over the years. The second courthouse built here, which was apparently of Victorian style and was quite unique, burned down. This is either the third or the fourth courthouse, but it is dwarfed by the new judicial center in town.

Like most of the area, Magoffin County is a coal county. Interestingly, most native Magoffin County folks can probably trace their ancestors back to South Carolina, as the area was first settled in 1794 by a small group of settlers from South Carolina that built a community around the Licking River around what is now Salyersville.

NoD: Camp Nelson National Cemetery

Headstones at Camp Nelson National Cemetery – Nicholasville, Ky.

In southern Jessamine County lies the Camp Nelson National Cemetery, one of eight national cemeteries in the Commonwealth. Prior to being a designated national cemetery (1866), Sections A, B, C and D contained the buried dead from the Civil War-era Camp Nelson. This 3.5 acre area was subsequently expanded around the time of its designation to approximately 8 acres, but today it is much larger at about 51 acres (thanks in part to a donation of 10 acres made in 1975 and the acquisition of 21 acres in 2010). In fact, current acreage would allow a total of approximately 30,000 graves while the current census is less than 15,000.

A part of the massive Civil War-era Camp Nelson complex – once 4,000 acres – the first soldiers buried here were likely victims of smallpox and other non-conflict causes. At least one death was noted due to a “falling tree.” [*] After becoming a designated national cemetery, 2,023 dead from various Kentucky battlefields and skirmishes were reinterred here: from Frankfort (104), Richmond (241), London (266), Covington (437), and from Perryville, where the Confederates were defeated in October of 1862 (975).

Pictured above is one of the many headstones located at the cemetery. If you look closely, you’ll note that it is that of Larry C. Vrondis (a WWII Veteran who I have mentioned on this site before). On this Memorial Day, we thank all of our veterans (and their families) for their service to our country.

You can visit Camp Nelson for its Memorial Day events on Monday, May 30 at 11:00 a.m.

NoD: Cox Building

Cox Building – Maysville, Ky.

In November of 2010, fire ravaged Maysville’s historic Cox Building (photos). I immediately remembered the story when I was in Maysville the following month and observed all of the scaffolding around the building’s remaining shell. It was clear that the roof and top floor was a complete loss.

The building first opened in 1887 with its upper floors (primarily the Third) being a Masonic Lodge for the York Rite Knights Templar. Its opening was attended by Gov. J. Proctor Knott (a Templar) who stated that “The Temple is pronounced the handomest in Kentucky, and one of the finest in the South.”

The Cox Building replaced a tanyard and a “dilapidated two-story brick” with a Romanesque five-story designed by W. R. Brown of Crapsey & Brown, Cincinnati. The Masons shared their space throughout the years with other orders and organizations, including other Masonic rites, the Eastern Stars and the Grand Army of the Republic. Storefronts and offices contained a number of different businesses. Later, portions of the upper floors were converted into low-income housing.

The Cox Building is symmetrical on each of its visible facades with a tower in its corner. Visible in the tower shingles was a red cross – a tangible connection to the resident Templars. Of course, the Masons included a number of other architectural flourishes in the building’s design. Although the building appears to be a four story structure, there are in fact five stories with an ‘intermediate’ fourth floor between Three and Five. Apparently, this ‘intermediate’ floor contained the Red Cross Room and armoury (to be certain, it would have been the most secretive areas in the building as it was unknown from the street).

The City of Maysville acquired the building in 2006 and sought to renovate it as a community center which would include a culinary school to be part of the local community college. After the fire, the building was nominated for inclusion on the National Register with the hope of securing more grants to return this beautiful landmark of Maysville to its glory.

UPDATE: On August 18, 2011, the Cox Building was added to the National Register of Historic Places (11000538).

walkLEX: Pope Villa

Pope Villa – Lexington, Ky.

Designed by Benjamin Henry Latrobe in 1811 for Senator John Pope and his wife Eliza, this home is one of – if not the – best example of residential architecture in America by this incredible architect (only 3 remain).

Benjamin Latrobe was best known, however, for his work as the nation’s architect. In fact, he was the first professionally trained architect in the country. A friend of Thomas Jefferson and other leaders, Latrobe oversaw the construction of the U.S. Capitol, designed parts of the White House, and drew up the plans for the Baltimore Basilica.

Latrobe’s Kentucky clients were very involved in the design of their home – a perfect square footprint topped with a dome. The first floor “basement” included Pope’s office, Eliza’s parlor, in-house servant’s quarters and, of course, some “secret” passages. The primary floor of the Villa, however, was the second. Upon ascending the stairs, one would have found a circular domed main parlor (probably with an oculus skylight). To the right were the drawing room and the dining room – each with a curved wall creating two “dead zones” one of which would have completely obscured any utility from the middle window on the second floor. Bedrooms were to the left.

The Popes sold the property in 1829 when they left for Arkansas (John had been appointed by President Jackson to be the territorial governor). The Woolfolk family bought the home and, at the conclusion of the Civil War, retained Thomas Lewinski to redesign the building into an Italianate structure. (Lewinski was the Lexington architect of the era as Gideon Shryock had left for Louisville; Lewinski also designed the new Ashland estate and a number of downtown churches, including Christ Church Episcopal).

Over time, the property was expanded and converted into as many as ten apartments for University students. Despite all the damage done, original wallpaper samples and other architectural detail has been uncovered. [*]

Ravaged by arson in 1986, the property was thereafter purchased by the Bluegrass Trust which has carefully restored the exterior of Pope Villa to its 1812 appearance; the interior is an ongoing project. More pictures of the Pope Villa can be accessed here. Richard Moe, the President of the National Trust for Historic Preservation, has described the Pope Villa as “one of this country’s greatest treasures.” It certainly is one of Lexington’s.

walkLEX: Town Branch Market

Town Branch Market – Lexington, Ky.

A couple of weeks after Shorty’s opened in downtown Lexington (163 W. Short St.), the Town Branch Market opened at the corner of Esplanade and Main. The opening last week took downtown Lexington to a count of two downtown grocer’s (a far cry from the goose egg we’d had for years).

Town Branch is completely different than Shorty’s. When you walk into Town Branch, the feel is more convenience store that grocery — an intended feel for a market designed for downtown employees and residents needing to quickly pick up a few items. Yes, there was some meat, some veggies, some fruit … but nothing like the selection at Shorty’s. Again, I think this was intended.

Town Branch offered a great selection of fountain drinks and cappuccino bar to serve a market and price-point not otherwise available downtown. Coupled with partnerships with area businesses (Good Foods Coop, Donut Days — I’m really excited about getting a Donut Days doughnut downtown) and you have some great pre-made food offerings. There is also a nice selection of Ky Proud products – as owner Howard Stovall says, “If we can get it locally, its going to come locally.” That is good news.

The market’s name comes from the Town Branch of the Elkhorn Creek which flows underneath downtown Lexington. This stream is also known as the Middle Fork of the Elkhorn, but Town Branch is certainly the more commonly utilized name. Lexington is what it is today because this tributary flows through our fertile soil and is another example of a new local business taking its name from our collective local history.

Save the Historic Valley View Ferry

A variation of the following originally appeared on ProgressLex on May 18, 2011. I have previously written on the historic Valley View Ferry on the Kaintuckeean, but current events bring history to the forefront.

The John Craig at the Valley View Ferry, Ky.

The flags of Virginia and Kentucky fly over the John Craig vessel at the
Valley View Ferry, Ky.

The Valley View Ferry is a great example of what makes the Bluegrass unique. Crossing the Kentucky River at the point where Fayette, Jessamine and Madison counties meet (at the very end of Tates Creek Road), Valley View is the oldest, continuously operating ferry service west of the Alleghenies and the third oldest operating ferry in the country. In fact, Valley View predates the Commonwealth itself by seven years. When Virginia Gov. Patrick Henry (yes…that Patrick Henry) signed the Ferry’s charter in 1785, it was to be both “perpetual and irrevocable.”

The Lexington mayor’s budget proposes to withdraw Lexington’s funding for this historic landmark and important traffic corridor, undoing that which was begun by one of our Nation’s Founders.

Mayor Gray’s budget includes many tough decisions that affect a number of worthy groups and interests. Many of the cuts involved millions of dollars, yet the Valley View Ferry budget for Fayette County ($40,000/year) is fairly small. But this amount (most of which is in-kind materials and services rendered by the LFUCG for Ferry maintenance), and the overall support for the Ferry by the LFUCG, is critical for this important economic, transportation, and historic operation.

The Valley View Ferry is owned and operated by the Valley View Ferry Authority, which is the product of an inter-governmental agreement between Fayette, Jessamine and Madison Counties. Each county, plus the Kentucky Transportation Cabinet, contribute to funding the Ferry. This inter-governmental organization is exactly the kind of regional cooperation in which the LFUCG should participate. Regionalism is key to the region’s economic growth and is a staple of any economic development report.

Each day, the Valley View Ferry transports workers across the Kentucky River to and from work in Fayette County (remember, these workers pay Lexington payroll taxes which are the chief revenue source for LFUCG). For many, the Ferry saves nearly an hour of commuting time each way. It is an indispensable economic link between the three counties. An average of 15,000 passengers take the ferry each month; it is estimated that between 50-70% of the passengers live or work in Fayette County and pay Lexington taxes.

The Ferry supports “a major traffic corridor in the area and continued funding at both the state and local level is vital to its continued operation.” [*] Of the several ferries operating entirely within Kentucky, ridership on the Valley View Ferry is the highest. Importantly, the Valley View Ferry is an “alternative emergency route when I-75 is closed.” [*]

The Valley View Ferry is also a tourist destination. When my nieces and nephews visit, one thing they always want to do is “take the ferry.” Valley View provides a beautiful view of the Kentucky River and, in the distance, the Palisades. Bicyclists often take the Ferry to cross the Kentucky River on their treks over scenic byways.

Saving the historic Valley View Ferry will not be easy. With many legitimate interest groups competing for a shrinking budget, we can not simply ask Mayor Gray to restore the Ferry budget without suggesting painful cuts to other parts of the LFUCG budget. But what we can ask is that Mayor Gray provide the visionary leadership that will bring the public and private sectors in Fayette, Madison and Jessamine counties together to work for a solution. Specifically, Mayor Gray should work with the Ferry Authority, government representatives of the effected counties, the Blue Grass Trust, Preservation Kentucky, the Kentucky Heritage Council, and preservation groups in Jessamine and Madison counties. With Mayor Gray’s leadership, a coalition of these groups stands a good chance of developing the creative public/private strategy that is needed to ensure that Valley View continues a mission and a legacy that dates back to the founding of our Republic.

A couple of action items. First, contact the Mayor (859/258-3100) or other persons of interest to urge the cooperation and leadership necessary to preserve the Valley View Ferry – a key part of central Kentucky’s unique and irreplaceable cultural heritage.
Second, ride the Ferry (open dawn til dusk daily, except where the water on the Kentucky River is high – check here).
Third, donate to the Valley View Ferry Authority: Valley View Ferry Authority, ℅ Roger Barman, Chairman, PO Box 856, Nicholasville, KY 40356-0856. All donations are tax-deductible.

walkLEX: Thoroughbred Park

Thoroughbred Park, Lexington, Ky.

When I was little, I remember walking down Short Street to its eastern terminus on the back side of Thoroughbred Park. There, the topography recreates the feel of rolling, grass-covered hills of the region. As a kid, it was the perfect place for a game of frisbee.

Before the rolling hills were built and the statues crafted, this block was still the eastern entrance into downtown Lexington. Among the many buildings and businesses occupying the site was an old Pure Oil gas station which had become the Featherston’s Motor Company – a unique piece of architecture that could not be salvaged and funds couldn’t be secured to move the structure.

Thoroughbred Park, which opened in April of 1991, is a 2.75 acre tribute to the area’s equine history. As you drive down Midland Avenue toward Main Street seven life-size horses gallop with their jockeys urging them to the finish line where they are greeted by the pictured rose garden. (A “finish line” snap shot is recommended for visitors to Lexington, but natives can and should take advantage as well). The jockeys aren’t generic either; keen equine eyes will recognize Willie Shoemaker, Pat Day, Chris McCarron, Randy Romero, Don Brumfield, Jerry Bailey and Craig Perret – each adorned with the silks of a major stable. Foal and broodmare sculptures are located throughout the park, and there is also a statue of the famed horse, “Lexington.” All of the horses were sculpted by Gwen Reardon, a local and renowned equine sculptor. There is also a walk of plaques of important figures in equine history from around the globe.

This park is a great Lexington resource, but is underutilized. Maybe more people should go and throw around a frisbee?

Gone Fishin’

Fishing near the Oregon Inlet, Outer Banks, North Carolina

I’ve spent the past week in North Carolina’s Outer Banks. It was a great time – beautiful weather, spectacular beaches, lots of history and delicious food. There was a lot to see and do … and I also enjoyed some great down time. Of course, all this mean that I didn’t spend much time on the Kaintuckeean (though I did find a Kentucky connection, which I’ll post on soon.) So, consider this my gone fishin’ post.

Also, in an unrelated matter I’ve partnered with KyForward.com – a new local news organization committed to “community building.” They will be utilizing some of the content here at The Kaintuckeean. I’m excited about the possibilities of this new partnership! Be sure to check out (and keep checking out) KyForward.com – it is going to be a tremendous resource!