NoD: Lewis County’s Union Monument

Lewis County Courthouse
Union Monument at the Lewis County Courthouse – Vanceburg, Ky.

One hundred seven young men from Lewis County died answering Lincoln’s call to “preserve the Union.” They were not alone. Over two million Northerners took up arms against their Southern brethren for a conflict that would last four years and cost the lives of hundreds of thousands. In Kentucky – a border state with dueling state governments and its star being counted on the flags of both Union and Confederacy – the War pitted brother against brother.

After the war, the practice of erecting statues and monuments in memory of the brave soldiers began. We see them in cemeteries, in parks and on the lawns of courthouses. But if you look closely at those erected by public subscription on the lawns of courthouses, you will find that only one in Kentucky is dedicated to the soldiers of the Union Army.

The Union Monument on the lawn of the Lewis County Courthouse, Vanceburg, is not just the only such memorial in Kentucky — it is the only such memorial south of the Mason-Dixon Line! All other Union memorials are located in cemeteries with the fallen.

Thirty feet tall and cut from limestone, it was also the first Civil War monument with a statue erected in the Commonwealth. The soldier, clutching his musket with both hands, wears a kepi cap, cape and winter coat.

Erected in 1884, the distinction of this monument as the only such monument south of the Mason-Dixon Line evinces Lewis County’s strong Union leanings. The following is inscribed upon this monument to the fallen: “The War for the Union was Right, Everlasting Right; And the War Against the Union was Wrong, Forever Wrong.”

Sources, inter alia, National Register.

walkLEX: Graham Cottage

Graham Cottage - Lexington, Ky.
Graham Cottage – Lexington, Ky.

In antebellum Kentucky, education was a priority for many. In Hustonville in 1854, James M. Hocker formed a Christian College for women. It was the first all-female college this side of the Appalachian Mountains. After the Civil War, he relocated his “Hocker College” to a six acre tract on the west side of North Broadway in Lexington [*]. There, he called upon another leader in the Stone-Campbell restoration movement, Robert Graham, to assume the presidency of the institution. The residence pictured above was constructed in that year, 1869, as the college president’s home. Graham resigned in 1875 and, following a large donation, the college was renamed Hamilton College (I bet you can guess the donor’s last name!?).

By 1889, Transylvania University had taken an interest in the small college near its own campus and, in 1903, Transy converted Hamilton College into its own junior college before dissolving the institution entirely in 1932. The main building of Hocker/Hamilton was an impressive four-story brick Italianate that was repurposed as a women’s dormitory at Transy until the structure was demolished in 1962.

Today, the only remaining part of the Hocker/Hamilton College days is the Graham Cottage. Hardly a cottage, this stately home would serve as the home of four presidents of Transylvania University before the University began using the Cottage as an alumni house.

Speaking of alumni, one notable alumni of Hamilton College was Maurine Dallas Watkins, the scriptwriter who created the characters Roxie Hart and Velma Kelley for Chicago in 1926. Of course, the story was remade into a film in 1942 (with Ginger Rogers) and readapted as a musical (and a blockbuster film) in the past decade.

The Graham Cottage was described by Clay Lancaster as an “interesting antiquity” [*] and is one of three truly historic buildings standing on the campus of Transylvania University, the others being Old Morrison and the Patterson Cabin.

This post was republished on KyForward.com on June 8, 2011.

NoD: Camp Nelson National Cemetery

Camp Nelson
Headstones at Camp Nelson National Cemetery – Nicholasville, Ky.

In southern Jessamine County lies the Camp Nelson National Cemetery, one of eight national cemeteries in the Commonwealth. Prior to being a designated national cemetery (1866), Sections A, B, C and D contained the buried dead from the Civil War-era Camp Nelson. This 3.5 acre area was subsequently expanded around the time of its designation to approximately 8 acres, but today it is much larger at about 51 acres (thanks in part to a donation of 10 acres made in 1975 and the acquisition of 21 acres in 2010). In fact, current acreage would allow a total of approximately 30,000 graves while the current census is less than 15,000.

A part of the massive Civil War-era Camp Nelson complex – once 4,000 acres – the first soldiers buried here were likely victims of smallpox and other non-conflict causes. At least one death was noted due to a “falling tree.” [*] After becoming a designated national cemetery, 2,023 dead from various Kentucky battlefields and skirmishes were reinterred here: from Frankfort (104), Richmond (241), London (266), Covington (437), and from Perryville, where the Confederates were defeated in October of 1862 (975).

Pictured above is one of the many headstones located at the cemetery. If you look closely, you’ll note that it is that of Larry C. Vrondis (a WWII Veteran who I have mentioned on this site before). On this Memorial Day, we thank all of our veterans (and their families) for their service to our country.

You can visit Camp Nelson for its Memorial Day events on Monday, May 30 at 11:00 a.m.

walkLEX: Pope Villa

Pope Villa - Lexington, Ky.
Pope Villa – Lexington, Ky.

Designed by Benjamin Henry Latrobe in 1811 for Senator John Pope and his wife Eliza, this home is one of – if not the – best example of residential architecture in America by this incredible architect (only 3 remain).

Benjamin Latrobe was best known, however, for his work as the nation’s architect. In fact, he was the first professionally trained architect in the country. A friend of Thomas Jefferson and other leaders, Latrobe oversaw the construction of the U.S. Capitol, designed parts of the White House, and drew up the plans for the Baltimore Basilica.

Latrobe’s Kentucky clients were very involved in the design of their home – a perfect square footprint topped with a dome. The first floor “basement” included Pope’s office, Eliza’s parlor, in-house servant’s quarters and, of course, some “secret” passages. The primary floor of the Villa, however, was the second. Upon ascending the stairs, one would have found a circular domed main parlor (probably with an oculus skylight). To the right were the drawing room and the dining room – each with a curved wall creating two “dead zones” one of which would have completely obscured any utility from the middle window on the second floor. Bedrooms were to the left.

The Popes sold the property in 1829 when they left for Arkansas (John had been appointed by President Jackson to be the territorial governor). The Woolfolk family bought the home and, at the conclusion of the Civil War, retained Thomas Lewinski to redesign the building into an Italianate structure. (Lewinski was the Lexington architect of the era as Gideon Shryock had left for Louisville; Lewinski also designed the new Ashland estate and a number of downtown churches, including Christ Church Episcopal).

Over time, the property was expanded and converted into as many as ten apartments for University students. Despite all the damage done, original wallpaper samples and other architectural detail has been uncovered. [*]

Ravaged by arson in 1986, the property was thereafter purchased by the Bluegrass Trust which has carefully restored the exterior of Pope Villa to its 1812 appearance; the interior is an ongoing project. More pictures of the Pope Villa can be accessed here. Richard Moe, the President of the National Trust for Historic Preservation, has described the Pope Villa as “one of this country’s greatest treasures.” It certainly is one of Lexington’s.

NoD: Camp Nelson (Oliver Perry House)

Camp Nelson
Big White House at Camp Nelson, Nicholasville, Ky.

Somehow, it was not until February 2011 that I visited Camp Nelson. A Jessamine County landmark, it is a well-spring of historical information and trivia. A Civil War-era camp established to supply Union troops, it also served during that war as a recruitment center for African-American troops and as a military hospital. Of the 4,000 acres once within its bounds, 400 acres have been preserved. It is also now the home of the Camp Nelson National Cemetery.

I could, and eventually plan to, write a number of posts about the rich history surrounding Camp Nelson, but I’ll begin with its most notable landmark that is locally known simply as the “White House.” Formally, it is the Oliver Perry House and was used as quarters for the officers. The only building remaining from the Civil War era, it is a two-story frame Greek Revival originally constructed by Oliver and Fannie (Scott) Perry circa 1850. During the War, the Union added the rear two-bay deep addition. The building had fallen under complete disrepair prior to its meticulous restoration by the Jessamine County Fiscal Court which has been an instrumental force in preserving this historic area.

In 1863, General Ambrose Burnside (for whom the sideburn is named – check out these chops) commandeered the Perry-Scott House and it was utilized by the Union for two years. Surrounding landowners also had their lands confiscated by the Union army to amass and secure the 4,000 acre site. The largest landowner was Mary Scott, Fannie Scott-Perry’s mother.

NoD: Camp Swigert

IMG_5279
Camp Swigert historic marker, Wurtland, Ky.

It has come to my attention that some of you are disappointed when they see a pictured historic marker. Sure, a marker isn’t as attention-grabbing as something that still exists – but it does mark an important piece of history for a reason. Regarding Camp Swigert, Kentucky historic marker #2247 reads:

Union Civil War training camp was organized Dec. 12, 1861. Made up of 20-25 acres. It became center of volunteer enlistees under command of Col. D. W. Lindsey. Recruits from surrounding counties, Frankfort & Louisville were assigned to form the 22nd Regt of Ky Volunteer Inf. Both black and white infantrymen stationed at Camp Swigert.
Engaged in skirmishes in eastern Ky & West Va., followed by Middle Creek, Ky and Cumberland Gap,Tn. They moved through Tennessee and Mississippi. The 22 Ky Volunteer Inf. Regt. consolidated at Baton Rouge, La in March 1864 into the 7 Ky Veteran Inf. Non-veterans were mustered out in Louisville on January 20, 1865.

After the Battle of Chickasaw Bayou, the colors of the KY 22nd Regt was said to be both “torn” and “covered with blood.” [*]

NoD: Birthplace of General John Bell Hood

IMG_5324
Birthplace of Gen. Hood, Owingsville, Ky.

General John Bell Hood was born in Owingsville, Kentucky in June, 1831. He served the Confederacy in the Civil War and did so with one of the most awesome beards in history. At Gettysburg, Hood (either by confusion or derelection) made a blunder which cost him the use of his arm. It also, arguably, cost the South a victory at Gettysburg and (given that the battle was the turning point of the War) the War. Am I exagerating history a little? Possibly.

We’ve highlighted this house before on the Kentucky120 visit to Owingsville, but inaccurately suggested that Hood was born in the house pictured; to clarify, he was born in a home that previously occupied the site. Yes, there is something about John Bell Hood that exudes hyperbole and exaggeration.

NoD: Limestone (n/k/a Maysville)

Maysville, KY
Waymarking Sign, Maysville, Ky.

Lexington’s Limestone Street travels north to merge with Paris Pike and its history is there forgotten. Ultimately, you can take the road all the way to the Ohio River at Maysville. And Limestone Street was once aptly named since Maysville was formerly known as Limestone. Limestone was first settled in 1784, the road to Lexington (an old buffalo trace) was almost immediately established. [*]

In 1787, Limestone was formally established by the Virginia General Assembly which changed the name of the community situated at the confluence of Limestone Creek and the Ohio River to Maysville. At the time, Limestone/Maysville was part of Bourbon County (and was until Mason County was created in 1789) and was a key riverport for the bourbon whiskey industry.

By 1833, Maysville was a thriving riverport and was made the county seat of Mason County in 1848 (it was a contentious vote, as Washington was previously the county seat). The name “Limestone” was used to identify the community until the mid-nineteenth century as well.

NoD: St. Paul’s Episcopal Church

Newport, Ky.
The Red Doors of St. Paul’s Episcopal Church
Newport, Ky.

Aside from the Cross, the most recognizable sign of a church (Episcopalian) is the red door – they are great for spotting from a block away. Also impressive is the number of Episcopal churches in Kentucky which are historical points of reference.

St. Paul’s Episcopal Church in Newport is such a church. It’s ivy-covered stone clock-tower next to the courthouse square makes for a beautiful church. The congregation began in 1845 and construction began on this church building in 1871. It is worth noting that the Episcopal Church in Kentucky did not split during the Civil War as did other denominations; this was a principal cause for St. Paul’s continued growth. “By 1870…the political prejudices and antipathies engendered by that terrible catastrophe were largely removed; and Federalist and Confederates together knelt in brotherly love and good-will at the same altar.” [*] Services were first held here in 1873, but the building was not completed until 1888. The project was over budget at a cost of $33,000 rather than the expected $19,452. The church, however, has weathered many storms: an 1880 earthquake, the flooding of the Ohio River in 1884 and 1937, as well as tornadoes in 1915 and 1986.

Newport, Ky.
St. Paul’s Episcopal Church
Newport, Ky.

But it is the people who attended St. Paul’s that complete its story (and cause it to have a historic marker, #1511):

For a century and a quarter, a St. Paul’s Episcopal Church has stood on this corner. Since 1871, the bell in the towering spire atop this native stone church has rung for services. Here worshipped Gen. James Taylor, War of 1812; Henry Stanbery, who defended President Andrew Johnson at his impeachment trial, 1868; Brent Spence, 37 yrs. in Congress, a lifetime member.

The church offers many social services for its urban community and continues to hold weekly services.

Nominations to the National Register

I love the National Register for Historic Places… and I especially love the applications for National Register status. Each property listed on the Register completed a detailed application which is full of great information about the building/neighborhood/community.

Last week, the Kentucky Heritage Council met to review local applications for the National Register. Although inclusion in the register is no guarantee of protection, it does help protect the properties. Kentucky has done a good job in getting her landmarks onto the Register – only New York, Massachusetts and Ohio have more. Here are the five contenders with some notes directly from the respective applications:

Hawkins House, Henderson

Hart House, Henderson (Henderson Co.) – Built in 1892 as a domestic single family dwelling in the Queen Anne style for [J. Hawkins] Hart who began his political career in the City as a court clerk. While living in the house, he would become a county judge, a city commissioner, have a private legal practice, and own his own real estate and insurance business. After the house passed out of the Hart family, it belonged to a succession of middle- to upper-class citizens of the town, including prominent doctors and businessmen. It has remained a single family dwelling throughout. There is strong evidence that the house was designed by the popular mail order architect, George F. Barber, whose designs helped disseminate the Queen Anne style throughout the United States in the late-19th century.  The house exhibits numerous hallmarks of Barber design and is an excellent example of Queen Anne architecture in the city.  Its architectural significance is interpreted within the
historic context, “George F. Barber and Queen Anne Style in Henderson, Kentucky.” The house’s scale, ornamentation, and location give important cues to post-Civil War socioeconomic development in Henderson.   [PDF]

Jenkins School, Jenkins

Jenkins School, Jenkins (Letcher Co.) – The 2½-story masonry building opened in 1912 and located along Main Street in Jenkins consists the original 1912 building, a 1924 addition with four classrooms and gymnasium, and a 1936 addition with additional classrooms and funded by WPA.  Both additions maintain the school’s original Colonial Revival style. [It] is historically significant for its status as the largest and finest school to be produced as part of the efforts by Consolidated Coal Company to develop Jenkins, a coal camp, in the coal rich mountains of eastern Kentucky.  As coal companies looked to begin mining the coal found in the remote parts of eastern Kentucky, they could see the benefit of providing amenities to their workers.  This led some coal corporations to develop coal towns with one or more of the following amenities: churches, schools, stores, a bakery, butcher, entertainment venues, dormitories, bathhouses, a hospital, and hotels.   Jenkins was considered one of the crown jewels of coal towns — Consolidation Coal Company would bring politicians and visitors from all around the United States and abroad to see their accomplishments in this Letcher County settlement.  Jenkins’ outstanding school building signaled the quality of the town.  Many of its graduates went to college, and the school was expanded several times while under Company control. This school is one of the largest in the region built during the period and stands within one of the most fully developed coal camps in eastern Kentucky. Jenkins School is a significant contributor to the understanding of how the educational system developed during the time coal corporations were involved in developing settlements. [PDF]

McBride’s Landing, Harrods Creek

McBride’s Harrods Creek Landing, Harrods Creek (Jefferson Co.) – [The property] consists of 30 acres of land along the Ohio River and a series of maritime resources. The vessels include four permanently moored barges, one floating dry dock, one crane and one marine railway. The Landing is located at mile point 596 on the left (south) bank of the Ohio River. The Landing is strategically placed near the mouth of Harrods Creek and above the McAlpine Lock and Dam, a location with a still pool and stable water levels. The nominated property is located at 5913 River Road in Harrods Creek, Kentucky,  and contains the Leo Birch McBride House, circa 1933, and the George W. McBride House and Barn, circa 1950-1954. There are five contributing buildings, seven contributing structures and one contributing site. [PDF]

Miller Co., Louisville

Miller Paper Company Buildings, Louisville (Jefferson Co.) – The two buildings are at 118 East Main (4 stories high) and at 122 East Main (2 stories).  Brick structures flank the nominated property on either side.  The main facades, in limestone and marble, exhibit a High Deco style.  Both lots have been in use since the nineteenth century; the buildings are being interpreted as having primary identity and significance dating to the 1940s, when a major renovation project was undertaken. The property sits within an area which was once known as “Whiskey Row” in Louisville.  In the two-block stretch of Main Street from Second Street to Brook Street, 20 different buildings are identified on the 1892 Sanborn Map as purveyors of Wholesale Liquors. The Miller Paper Buildings are architecturally significant; their value is evaluated within the context “Art Deco and Moderne Architecture in Louisville, Kentucky.”  The building embodies the distinctive characteristics of the Art Deco architectural style. Louisville’s Art Deco design context shows more instances of nonresidential application of the style than residential.  Within the two style categories, Art Deco often emphasized the vertical where Moderne emphasized the horizontal.  Many of the examples of the styles in Louisville are found on buildings of industrial and warehouse use, such as this property. As these commercial buildings grew larger in Louisville during the middle of the 20th century, designers were confronted with the challenge of retaining the style’s vocabulary with balance.  The nominated properties provide a pleasing combination of detailing and formal balance.  They provide a valuable example to the collective span of the local application of both style trends. [PDF]

Most Blessed Sacrament
School, Louisville

Most Blessed Sacrament School, Louisville (Jefferson Co.) – Located at 1128 Berry Boulevard in the Oakdale neighborhood of Louisville, Kentucky. The building, begun in 1937 and completed in 1938, was designed by Louisville architect Walter Wagner. The main façade features a central entrance bay with inset paired wooden doors. The five-bay symmetrical façade is topped by a limestone nameplate and cross.  The building is decorated with a nod toward Collegiate Gothic, with its corbelled cornice at the roofline, limestone pilasters, and limestone belt-course. A two-story brick convent – a residence for the Nuns who served as teachers – was added to the building in 1952.With Louisville being one of Kentucky’s few cities with a sizable Roman Catholic population, Most Blessed Sacrament is being interpreted for its role in Louisville’s Social History. Most Blessed Sacrament School played a significant role: it served as one of the network of parish schools providing a Christian religious education alternative for Catholic families, as a tangible response to the mandate from the Vatican, through the American Bishops, and finally through the Louisville Diocese, to provide religious education in each parish. This mandate for Catholic education made Louisville’s system of parochial schools a widespread touchstone in many 20th century Louisvillians’ social and educational experience. [PDF]

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