Fayette – Page 26 – The Kaintuckeean

walkLEX: Pope Villa

Pope Villa – Lexington, Ky.

Designed by Benjamin Henry Latrobe in 1811 for Senator John Pope and his wife Eliza, this home is one of – if not the – best example of residential architecture in America by this incredible architect (only 3 remain).

Benjamin Latrobe was best known, however, for his work as the nation’s architect. In fact, he was the first professionally trained architect in the country. A friend of Thomas Jefferson and other leaders, Latrobe oversaw the construction of the U.S. Capitol, designed parts of the White House, and drew up the plans for the Baltimore Basilica.

Latrobe’s Kentucky clients were very involved in the design of their home – a perfect square footprint topped with a dome. The first floor “basement” included Pope’s office, Eliza’s parlor, in-house servant’s quarters and, of course, some “secret” passages. The primary floor of the Villa, however, was the second. Upon ascending the stairs, one would have found a circular domed main parlor (probably with an oculus skylight). To the right were the drawing room and the dining room – each with a curved wall creating two “dead zones” one of which would have completely obscured any utility from the middle window on the second floor. Bedrooms were to the left.

The Popes sold the property in 1829 when they left for Arkansas (John had been appointed by President Jackson to be the territorial governor). The Woolfolk family bought the home and, at the conclusion of the Civil War, retained Thomas Lewinski to redesign the building into an Italianate structure. (Lewinski was the Lexington architect of the era as Gideon Shryock had left for Louisville; Lewinski also designed the new Ashland estate and a number of downtown churches, including Christ Church Episcopal).

Over time, the property was expanded and converted into as many as ten apartments for University students. Despite all the damage done, original wallpaper samples and other architectural detail has been uncovered. [*]

Ravaged by arson in 1986, the property was thereafter purchased by the Bluegrass Trust which has carefully restored the exterior of Pope Villa to its 1812 appearance; the interior is an ongoing project. More pictures of the Pope Villa can be accessed here. Richard Moe, the President of the National Trust for Historic Preservation, has described the Pope Villa as “one of this country’s greatest treasures.” It certainly is one of Lexington’s.

walkLEX: Town Branch Market

Town Branch Market – Lexington, Ky.

A couple of weeks after Shorty’s opened in downtown Lexington (163 W. Short St.), the Town Branch Market opened at the corner of Esplanade and Main. The opening last week took downtown Lexington to a count of two downtown grocer’s (a far cry from the goose egg we’d had for years).

Town Branch is completely different than Shorty’s. When you walk into Town Branch, the feel is more convenience store that grocery — an intended feel for a market designed for downtown employees and residents needing to quickly pick up a few items. Yes, there was some meat, some veggies, some fruit … but nothing like the selection at Shorty’s. Again, I think this was intended.

Town Branch offered a great selection of fountain drinks and cappuccino bar to serve a market and price-point not otherwise available downtown. Coupled with partnerships with area businesses (Good Foods Coop, Donut Days — I’m really excited about getting a Donut Days doughnut downtown) and you have some great pre-made food offerings. There is also a nice selection of Ky Proud products – as owner Howard Stovall says, “If we can get it locally, its going to come locally.” That is good news.

The market’s name comes from the Town Branch of the Elkhorn Creek which flows underneath downtown Lexington. This stream is also known as the Middle Fork of the Elkhorn, but Town Branch is certainly the more commonly utilized name. Lexington is what it is today because this tributary flows through our fertile soil and is another example of a new local business taking its name from our collective local history.

Save the Historic Valley View Ferry

A variation of the following originally appeared on ProgressLex on May 18, 2011. I have previously written on the historic Valley View Ferry on the Kaintuckeean, but current events bring history to the forefront.

The John Craig at the Valley View Ferry, Ky.

The flags of Virginia and Kentucky fly over the John Craig vessel at the
Valley View Ferry, Ky.

The Valley View Ferry is a great example of what makes the Bluegrass unique. Crossing the Kentucky River at the point where Fayette, Jessamine and Madison counties meet (at the very end of Tates Creek Road), Valley View is the oldest, continuously operating ferry service west of the Alleghenies and the third oldest operating ferry in the country. In fact, Valley View predates the Commonwealth itself by seven years. When Virginia Gov. Patrick Henry (yes…that Patrick Henry) signed the Ferry’s charter in 1785, it was to be both “perpetual and irrevocable.”

The Lexington mayor’s budget proposes to withdraw Lexington’s funding for this historic landmark and important traffic corridor, undoing that which was begun by one of our Nation’s Founders.

Mayor Gray’s budget includes many tough decisions that affect a number of worthy groups and interests. Many of the cuts involved millions of dollars, yet the Valley View Ferry budget for Fayette County ($40,000/year) is fairly small. But this amount (most of which is in-kind materials and services rendered by the LFUCG for Ferry maintenance), and the overall support for the Ferry by the LFUCG, is critical for this important economic, transportation, and historic operation.

The Valley View Ferry is owned and operated by the Valley View Ferry Authority, which is the product of an inter-governmental agreement between Fayette, Jessamine and Madison Counties. Each county, plus the Kentucky Transportation Cabinet, contribute to funding the Ferry. This inter-governmental organization is exactly the kind of regional cooperation in which the LFUCG should participate. Regionalism is key to the region’s economic growth and is a staple of any economic development report.

Each day, the Valley View Ferry transports workers across the Kentucky River to and from work in Fayette County (remember, these workers pay Lexington payroll taxes which are the chief revenue source for LFUCG). For many, the Ferry saves nearly an hour of commuting time each way. It is an indispensable economic link between the three counties. An average of 15,000 passengers take the ferry each month; it is estimated that between 50-70% of the passengers live or work in Fayette County and pay Lexington taxes.

The Ferry supports “a major traffic corridor in the area and continued funding at both the state and local level is vital to its continued operation.” [*] Of the several ferries operating entirely within Kentucky, ridership on the Valley View Ferry is the highest. Importantly, the Valley View Ferry is an “alternative emergency route when I-75 is closed.” [*]

The Valley View Ferry is also a tourist destination. When my nieces and nephews visit, one thing they always want to do is “take the ferry.” Valley View provides a beautiful view of the Kentucky River and, in the distance, the Palisades. Bicyclists often take the Ferry to cross the Kentucky River on their treks over scenic byways.

Saving the historic Valley View Ferry will not be easy. With many legitimate interest groups competing for a shrinking budget, we can not simply ask Mayor Gray to restore the Ferry budget without suggesting painful cuts to other parts of the LFUCG budget. But what we can ask is that Mayor Gray provide the visionary leadership that will bring the public and private sectors in Fayette, Madison and Jessamine counties together to work for a solution. Specifically, Mayor Gray should work with the Ferry Authority, government representatives of the effected counties, the Blue Grass Trust, Preservation Kentucky, the Kentucky Heritage Council, and preservation groups in Jessamine and Madison counties. With Mayor Gray’s leadership, a coalition of these groups stands a good chance of developing the creative public/private strategy that is needed to ensure that Valley View continues a mission and a legacy that dates back to the founding of our Republic.

A couple of action items. First, contact the Mayor (859/258-3100) or other persons of interest to urge the cooperation and leadership necessary to preserve the Valley View Ferry – a key part of central Kentucky’s unique and irreplaceable cultural heritage.
Second, ride the Ferry (open dawn til dusk daily, except where the water on the Kentucky River is high – check here).
Third, donate to the Valley View Ferry Authority: Valley View Ferry Authority, ℅ Roger Barman, Chairman, PO Box 856, Nicholasville, KY 40356-0856. All donations are tax-deductible.

walkLEX: Thoroughbred Park

Thoroughbred Park, Lexington, Ky.

When I was little, I remember walking down Short Street to its eastern terminus on the back side of Thoroughbred Park. There, the topography recreates the feel of rolling, grass-covered hills of the region. As a kid, it was the perfect place for a game of frisbee.

Before the rolling hills were built and the statues crafted, this block was still the eastern entrance into downtown Lexington. Among the many buildings and businesses occupying the site was an old Pure Oil gas station which had become the Featherston’s Motor Company – a unique piece of architecture that could not be salvaged and funds couldn’t be secured to move the structure.

Thoroughbred Park, which opened in April of 1991, is a 2.75 acre tribute to the area’s equine history. As you drive down Midland Avenue toward Main Street seven life-size horses gallop with their jockeys urging them to the finish line where they are greeted by the pictured rose garden. (A “finish line” snap shot is recommended for visitors to Lexington, but natives can and should take advantage as well). The jockeys aren’t generic either; keen equine eyes will recognize Willie Shoemaker, Pat Day, Chris McCarron, Randy Romero, Don Brumfield, Jerry Bailey and Craig Perret – each adorned with the silks of a major stable. Foal and broodmare sculptures are located throughout the park, and there is also a statue of the famed horse, “Lexington.” All of the horses were sculpted by Gwen Reardon, a local and renowned equine sculptor. There is also a walk of plaques of important figures in equine history from around the globe.

This park is a great Lexington resource, but is underutilized. Maybe more people should go and throw around a frisbee?

My Old Kentucky UFO?

UFOs Over Lexington? Lexington, KY (April 29, 2011)

I wasn’t going to post this, but after reading about some UFO sightings over Kentucky by UnusualKY … I just couldn’t resist.

Driving down Man-O-War a week ago today (April 29), my wife and I noticed several white blurs in the sky (the ones in the top half of the picture…not the lights at the bottom). Three are in the picture above, but there were others. Although the three pictured here all seemed to be going the same direction, others seemed to have random trajectories. Explaining a few as jet trails would have been simple, but 5 or 6?

Apparently, Kentucky is a hotbed for UFO activity. Did I have a near encounter? Perhaps. Could it have been a meteor breaking up? Don’t know. Here is a transcript of my report to the Mutual UFO Network:

In my car driving on Man-O-War in Lexington (toward US68 from US27), my wife and I noticed a few white streaks in the sky. Thinking at first they were jet trails, I began to be more curious when I noticed about 5 or 6 in different parts of the sky … travelling at different trajectories. I also considered shooting stars or a meteor shower, but there don’t appear to be any other reports (the Lyrids were the week before).
So, I couldn’t explain it. I did manage to snap a picture of 3 of them. I lost sight of the objects when I went into Orange Leaf for some frozen yogurt and I didn’t regain sight of them when I came back out.

walkLEX: Wolf Wile / Gray Construction

Wolf Wile Building, Lexington, KY

At the corner of Main and Quality Streets in downtown Lexington sits a classic example of mid-twentieth century urban commercial architecture. Its most noticeable feature is a limestone pillar that reaches above the roof line on the northwestern corner with vertical block letters: WOLF WILE. The four-story stone and brick building was built for the Wolf Wile Department Store in 1948 on a site that had previously been a bus depot. [*] Wolf Wile had moved from a location near Union Station to this new location designed by the Lexington architecture firm of Frankel and Curtis and the NYC firm Amos Parrish and Co.

The Parrish firm specialized in retail design and the Wolf Wile building represented a change in mid-century design. With an emphasize on maximizing floor space, sales and utility, the building was designed from the inside out – a clear departure from the highly ornamental commercial structures popular only decades earlier (consider 123 West Main). This International Style of architecture was and is rare in Lexington; the minimalistic style so popular in Europe between the two World Wars caught on in the United States only after WWII. [*]

The Wolf Wile Department Store was one of Lexington’s finest department stores, providing “family ownership, conservative management, low overhead, and personal service” for 103 years. [*] After more than a century, Wolf Wile shuttered in 1992 as Lexingtonians sought more suburban shopping destinations.

Four years later, in 1996, the building was acquired by the James N. Gray Construction company for use as its corporate headquarters. That same year, the National Register listed the building. You can see pictures included in the submission packet here (PDF). These pictures are very clearly those of an empty department store, but that also show the architectural features that have been preserved by the Gray renovation.

In opening the floorplan and including more natural light, Gray has preserved the Main Street and Quality Street facades. The interior has preserved the fantastic stairs and the elevator area with its polished Italian marble wall. The Main Street doors, however, are closed at Gray Construction. Instead, the primary entrance is on Water Street. This realignment of the building is dramatic as the primary entrance is now where the loading dock once stood facing out to the railroad tracks that decades ago were replaced by a widened Vine Street.

walkLEX: Shorty’s


A Month Pre-Opening		Grand Opening Day

A few weeks ago, I got a sneak peek at what was to come. For the first time in years, a grocery store would open in downtown Lexington. Having grown up downtown, I remember the nearest grocer being either the Winn Dixie on Leestown or the Kroger on Euclid. Well, folks. The times they are a changin’!

My April visit revealed an unfinished ceiling, new subway tile, exposed brick, an empty bank vault … and blueprints. A month ago, this space could have been finished as a law office, a loft or anything. But it was planned to be and has opened as a grocery store.

Shorty’s – An Urban Market opened on Sunday, May 1 with a ribbon-cutting and champagne. I held a glass in one hand and my two-year-old’s hand in the other. As we explored the selection, we found a great selection of meats, fruits and veggies and packaged food. Prices were comparable with other high-end groceries, but the convenience factor at Shorty’s is high for those working and living downtown.

The remodeling of the suite at 163 West Short Street is part of the Traditional Bank Building (which was formerly the home of Central Bank & Trust) was designed by EOP Architecture of Lexington. Milk bottle light fixtures, dark wooden shelving and a refrigerated section in the bank vault are some of the highlighted features.

As a result of having my 2-year-old at hand, I couldn’t snap the number of pictures I normally would have taken. Even so, check out my other before-after shots on flickr. Check out some more great photographs from Savoring Kentucky and canonchef. If you are in the area, check out Shorty’s – it is a great example of adaptive reuse. And, at least on its first day, it is a great little grocer!

This post was republished by kyforward.com on May 18, 2011.

walkLEX: Nick Ryan’s Saloon


Empty Lot on Jefferson Street (before)		Nick Ryan’s Saloon (after)

The dining scene on Jefferson Street in downtown Lexington has been rapidly changing over the past couple years. Most of the changes have been positive (a sad note was when the Cuppa tea cafe closed earlier this month – obituary by thebravetart). One of the most positive improvements to this part of the Western Suburb is the construction and opening of Nick Ryan’s Saloon (where they proudly display the history of this great name).

As you can see from the pictures above, just a short while ago an empty lot sat on Jefferson Street across from the Harrison Elementary playground. A quick glance at the building wouldn’t reveal a building completed in 2010 — it looks like a much older building that has been well taken care of. The two story brick is patterned after the nearby Green Lantern with its long porches across the front and French doors which provide access to the open dining area. [*] Plans to renovate the neighboring building and expand were altered when it was determined that the structure couldn’t be saved; Nick Ryan’s will expand in yet another neo-historic building. [*]

But I’m not here to do a restaurant review (disclosure: I love the place). I’m here to appreciate how the restaurant embraces its pseudo-history. Recognizing that this is not a continuation of the old, Nick Ryan’s is an example of an excellent infill project for the primarily-residential neighborhoods that surround downtown. Aside from building a terrific building that is appropriate for the area, the owners selected a name with a Lexington history.

Nick Ryan’s Saloon existed before, circa 1905 on North Mill Street (at 120 North Mill, to be exact). Nick Ryan’s honors the tradition with historic photographs in the restaurant and on the website, though a love history is the only connection between the now and then. Of course, the real Nick Ryan who opened the original saloon in 1905 grew up in the Western Suburb where the new namesake saloon now resides. All saloons shuttered when prohibition began in 1920, but the Ryan’s survived with their other business interests (clothing and restaurants).

WalkLEX: Boss Klair’s House

The Billy Klair House, Lexington, Ky.

We all recognize the name of Boss Tweed – the leader of the nineteenth century NYC political machine. A similar figure existed in Lexington in the early twentieth century: Billy Klair. His home, at the corner of Old Georgetown and West Short, is pictured above and is a landmark of the Historic Western Suburb.

Klair, in the words of Gov. Happy Chandler, “absolutely controlled Lexington.” He was known by all as “Billy” and he routinely apologized for “being sober,” helping to connect him to every voter. He served in the state Democratic Party organization and also served in the General Assembly.

In utilizing patronage, Klair ensured that a disproportionate number of Lexingtonians remained on the state payroll. His precinct organizational skills were impeccable — he even housed a “Sunday School” in his office with friends on the police force during which they got together and informed Klair about what was going on around town.

In business, Klair had his hand (and connections) in a number of businesses: saloons, hotels, book publishing and banks. His book publishing company produced nearly all of the state’s textbooks; critics said that if he were to publish a dictionary it could stop at “G” for “graft.” Despite lucrative textbooks contracts, Klair’s most successful venture was the insurance company of which he was a member: Klair & Scott Insurance.

Despite the fact that neither Tom Scott nor Billy Klair knew anything about the insurance business, it quickly became one of the state’s biggest insurers. From his office on the sixth floor of the Security Trust Building, Klair insured the assets of the Commonwealth, the University of Kentucky, and Keeneland. Charlie Wiley, who would later become Lexington’s mayor described Klair as a “shrewd politician” and quipped that he had “fire and theft insurance on every bridge in the state.” Think about that.

Most of the information in this post comes from Bossism and Reform in a Southern City: Lexington, Kentucky, 1880-1940 by James Duane Bolin.

walkLEX: Western Suburb

West Short Street in the Historic Western Suburb, Lexington, Ky.

On the most recent deTour by the Bluegrass Trust, we visited the Historic Western Suburb. Having grown up in this neighborhood, I was quite familiar with some of the stories – but there is always more to learn. Short Street, the 600 block of which is pictured, is the focus of the neighborhood which stretches from Newtown Pike to Saunier Avenue with a number of jagged north-south variations (see this map) to encompass historic properties.

The neighborhood was formally platted in 1815 making it one of (if not the) oldest suburb of Lexington. The land – and much of the area – had been owned by Colonel John Todd, a Revolutionary War officer who was killed at the Battle of Blue Licks. His daughter, Mary Owen (aka Polly), inherited all of her father’s vast estate making her the richest woman in Kentucky; she was three years old.

Greek Revival architecture is predominant in the HWS is Greek Revival, but architectural style is as diverse in the WS as the people who have called her home. Throughout its history, the neighborhood would be considered what is now “upper middle class.” Lawyers, businessmen and others have always called the HWS home. Their businesses were often located next to the businesses, leaving opportunity for later infill.

One of the HWS most notorious residents was the famed Madame Belle Brezing. She learned and practiced her trade in neighborhood brothels (one of which was located in what is now the Mary Todd Lincoln House). Apparently, Madame Brezing’s first participation in the sex trade occurred at the lumber yard which was located at the site of the gas station (Main and Old Georgetown).

This post was republished by kyforward.com on May 6, 2011.