walkLEX – Page 11 – The Kaintuckeean

walkLEX: Nick Ryan’s Saloon


Empty Lot on Jefferson Street (before)		Nick Ryan’s Saloon (after)

The dining scene on Jefferson Street in downtown Lexington has been rapidly changing over the past couple years. Most of the changes have been positive (a sad note was when the Cuppa tea cafe closed earlier this month – obituary by thebravetart). One of the most positive improvements to this part of the Western Suburb is the construction and opening of Nick Ryan’s Saloon (where they proudly display the history of this great name).

As you can see from the pictures above, just a short while ago an empty lot sat on Jefferson Street across from the Harrison Elementary playground. A quick glance at the building wouldn’t reveal a building completed in 2010 — it looks like a much older building that has been well taken care of. The two story brick is patterned after the nearby Green Lantern with its long porches across the front and French doors which provide access to the open dining area. [*] Plans to renovate the neighboring building and expand were altered when it was determined that the structure couldn’t be saved; Nick Ryan’s will expand in yet another neo-historic building. [*]

But I’m not here to do a restaurant review (disclosure: I love the place). I’m here to appreciate how the restaurant embraces its pseudo-history. Recognizing that this is not a continuation of the old, Nick Ryan’s is an example of an excellent infill project for the primarily-residential neighborhoods that surround downtown. Aside from building a terrific building that is appropriate for the area, the owners selected a name with a Lexington history.

Nick Ryan’s Saloon existed before, circa 1905 on North Mill Street (at 120 North Mill, to be exact). Nick Ryan’s honors the tradition with historic photographs in the restaurant and on the website, though a love history is the only connection between the now and then. Of course, the real Nick Ryan who opened the original saloon in 1905 grew up in the Western Suburb where the new namesake saloon now resides. All saloons shuttered when prohibition began in 1920, but the Ryan’s survived with their other business interests (clothing and restaurants).

WalkLEX: Boss Klair’s House

The Billy Klair House, Lexington, Ky.

We all recognize the name of Boss Tweed – the leader of the nineteenth century NYC political machine. A similar figure existed in Lexington in the early twentieth century: Billy Klair. His home, at the corner of Old Georgetown and West Short, is pictured above and is a landmark of the Historic Western Suburb.

Klair, in the words of Gov. Happy Chandler, “absolutely controlled Lexington.” He was known by all as “Billy” and he routinely apologized for “being sober,” helping to connect him to every voter. He served in the state Democratic Party organization and also served in the General Assembly.

In utilizing patronage, Klair ensured that a disproportionate number of Lexingtonians remained on the state payroll. His precinct organizational skills were impeccable — he even housed a “Sunday School” in his office with friends on the police force during which they got together and informed Klair about what was going on around town.

In business, Klair had his hand (and connections) in a number of businesses: saloons, hotels, book publishing and banks. His book publishing company produced nearly all of the state’s textbooks; critics said that if he were to publish a dictionary it could stop at “G” for “graft.” Despite lucrative textbooks contracts, Klair’s most successful venture was the insurance company of which he was a member: Klair & Scott Insurance.

Despite the fact that neither Tom Scott nor Billy Klair knew anything about the insurance business, it quickly became one of the state’s biggest insurers. From his office on the sixth floor of the Security Trust Building, Klair insured the assets of the Commonwealth, the University of Kentucky, and Keeneland. Charlie Wiley, who would later become Lexington’s mayor described Klair as a “shrewd politician” and quipped that he had “fire and theft insurance on every bridge in the state.” Think about that.

Most of the information in this post comes from Bossism and Reform in a Southern City: Lexington, Kentucky, 1880-1940 by James Duane Bolin.

walkLEX: Western Suburb

West Short Street in the Historic Western Suburb, Lexington, Ky.

On the most recent deTour by the Bluegrass Trust, we visited the Historic Western Suburb. Having grown up in this neighborhood, I was quite familiar with some of the stories – but there is always more to learn. Short Street, the 600 block of which is pictured, is the focus of the neighborhood which stretches from Newtown Pike to Saunier Avenue with a number of jagged north-south variations (see this map) to encompass historic properties.

The neighborhood was formally platted in 1815 making it one of (if not the) oldest suburb of Lexington. The land – and much of the area – had been owned by Colonel John Todd, a Revolutionary War officer who was killed at the Battle of Blue Licks. His daughter, Mary Owen (aka Polly), inherited all of her father’s vast estate making her the richest woman in Kentucky; she was three years old.

Greek Revival architecture is predominant in the HWS is Greek Revival, but architectural style is as diverse in the WS as the people who have called her home. Throughout its history, the neighborhood would be considered what is now “upper middle class.” Lawyers, businessmen and others have always called the HWS home. Their businesses were often located next to the businesses, leaving opportunity for later infill.

One of the HWS most notorious residents was the famed Madame Belle Brezing. She learned and practiced her trade in neighborhood brothels (one of which was located in what is now the Mary Todd Lincoln House). Apparently, Madame Brezing’s first participation in the sex trade occurred at the lumber yard which was located at the site of the gas station (Main and Old Georgetown).

This post was republished by kyforward.com on May 6, 2011.

walkLEX: Behold, Lexington (part deux)

Architect’s rendering of the proposed development. [*]

In April 2010, I posted about the announced project to built a CVS drugstore at the eastern entrance to downtown (across Main Street from Thoroughbred Park). The block, which I then pictured in its state of demolition, had consisted of mostly surface parking and single-story commercial buildings. The proposal to build the CVS was soon met with great opposition by a community action group, ProgressLex, which argued against the design of the CVS as being inappropriate for its position as a gateway into the downtown area. As a result of ProgressLex’s efforts, CVS slowed development to consider community input.

Construction was to begin in September of 2010, but the discovery of an underground utility box further delayed construction. Today we get word that a three-story mixed use development will be built at the location. Architectural renderings indicate a structure with a design similar to that of the modern Main+Rose, yet a small green area (with public art?) will be left for the easternmost (and prominent) corner. And a parking structure is proposed as well, eliminating the debate (for this site) about the overabundance of surface lots which reduce Lexington’s urban density.

I’ll look forward to seeing more information about this development, though I remain concerned about the introduction of two floors of office space when we already have a significant amount of vacant commercial square footage throughout Lexington (including downtown).

walkLEX: 111 West Main Street


Removing the Facade		circa 1920

On the first Sunday of 2011, I stopped to turn left onto Main Street from South Limestone and noticed the facade of 111 West Main Street being removed. I snapped the picture in an attempt to remember the boring facade – which is all I’ve ever known of this building which is occupied by the Sunrise Bakery. The work being done on this block is extensive; check out my prior post on 123 West Main.

According to the historic pictures of the Asa C. Chinn Collection, the property used to (c. 1920) house the Met Restaurant (111), Vacant (109) and confectioners Vrondis & Mehas (107). Vrondis, however, seems to be the main attraction based on signage visible in 1921, which read “L.C. Vrondis / Soda / Five Cents.” L.C. Vrondis was likely Larry C. Vrondis (3/28/1888 – 7/12/1961), SGT HQ Co 159 Brig USA, who is buried at Camp Nelson in Jessamine County. It is also worth noting that UK’s 1922 yearbook, the Kentuckian, contains an advertisement noting the Larry Vrondis Co. as the proprietor of the Savoy Restaurant (per the ad, “The Stopping Place for University People” and “Open Day and Night) which was located next door at 105 West Main Street. It seems that a little more research on Mr. Vrondis might reveal some interesting findings. Anyone care to do some research??

walkLEX: Silversmith Shop

@ Cheapside’s Patio, Lexington, Ky.

The patio at Lexington’s Cheapside Bar & Grille was once the site of Asa Blanchard’s silversmith shop. A historic marker identifies the site:

On this site, 1810-1838, was shop of Asa Blanchard, the most noted of Kentucky’s silversmiths. Blanchard silver was as prized in Kentucky as that of Paul Revere in New England. Among his customers were the most prominent families in the Bluegrass. A master craftsman who trained many apprentices, Blanchard was a goldsmith as well as a watch and clockmaker. He died in 1838.

Little is known of Blanchard prior to his arrival in Kentucky, but it is believed that he trained in England and his name appears in the 1790 and 1800 censuses of Wildersburgh Town, Vermont. He arrived in Lexington probably in 1808 and began acquiring the property at this corner (Short and Mill) in 1808. His work was presented to Henry Clay, governor Isaac Shelby. Also a clockmaker, one of his works appears at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. [*] Asa Blanchard died in Lexington in 1838.

And in economic development news, remember that another modern silversmith – Tiffany & Co. – is opening a manufacturing facility in Lexington next year.

This post was republished by KyForward on June 1, 2011.

walkLEX: Uneeda Biscuit

Uneeda Biscuit Ghost Sign, Lexington, Ky.

Walking down Short Street, you can see two different buildings bearing old ghost signs of a bygone era. Ghost signs were popular marketing tools in the late 1800s through the mid-1900s (conveniently, when our society both walked and was sans-suburbia). You can find them in most urban areas, and they are great reminders of the past because of both the marketing technique and the product itself.

The Uneeda Biscuit was first produced and sold in 1898 – it was the first mass-produced cracker in the United States. Prior to Adolphus Green’s creation for the National Biscuit Company, mothers would send sons with soap bags to get a fill of crackers at the local bakery. Unsurprisingly, many of the crackers came home broken. The company created a seal design for wax paper and the rest is history. Ultimately, National Biscuit Company became Nabisco in 1971. The Uneeda Biscuit was discontinued in 1999.

Cheapside Park, c. 1920-1921

Cheapside Park, circa 1920-1921.

With my office around the corner, Cheapside Park has been any easy target for posts. Its new Fifth Third Bank Pavilion is a great community asset, but we can roll back the clock and see what Cheapside looked like around 1920-1921.

Thanks again, Asa Chinn for all the great photographs you took in your day. And to the KY Digital Library for making them available! And to my paralegal, Leann, for emailing me this picture. The KDL identified the various businesses as follows:

Cheapside: Main to Short (West), 111 Monarch Loan Co., Burrough’s Adding Machine Co., W.F. Johnson, 115 Cheapside Shoe Market, 117 George M. Ramsey Sign Co., 119 J.C. Berryman, 121 Republic Trust Company, 123 A.B. Jones, 125 Arcade Drug Store, 127 J.T. Slanton, Dr. E.D. O’Leary, Daniel O’Leary, Arthur Stewart, 129 King & Daniel, 131 H.G. Riddle, W. King & Son, J.C. DeLong

walkLEX: McCarthy’s Irish Bar

Headed South, Looking North; Upper St., Lexington, Ky.

I really enjoyed doing a little digging for the 123 West Main post, so I decided to do a couple more. Plus, I had fun taking a few photos in my car’s side mirror (and frankly, I only have to much to say about McCarthy’s). Popular with UK students, the Irish Bar is a great place to go for a Guinness. But I think I would have rather gone to the location in the early 1920s…

According to the Asa C. Chinn collection, the two addresses (117 and 119 South Upper) once housed the Walter L. Honaker Fish and Oyster House (119) and D. Addler & Son (117). How I wish we still had a fish and oyster house downtown… [rumor has it a raw bar is coming to 310 W. Short St.] My research ended here – I couldn’t discover anything else about either the oyster house or the jeweler. Does anyone know anything??

walkLEX: 123 West Main Street

One Hundred Block of West Main, Lexington, Ky.

One of downtown Lexington’s ugliest blocks is undergoing a great renovation (the Fayette Co. PVA photographed the block at its absolute worst!). The 100s block of West Main Street, pictured above, includes a number of what appear to be architecturally insignificant buildings. And across the street sits what is now CentrePasture. The block, like many others downtown, is filled with law firms and restaurants.

Two of the block’s most attractive buildings sandwich our subject property: 123 West Main Street. The site will soon be an upscale jazz club – called The Green Door – as part of the Bellini’s complex. It is great to see another business downtown and we hope it all the success – but let’s talk about what is behind the ugly brick facade.

The Lexington Streetsweeper has already done some of the legwork by cropping the 1920-1921 streetscape photos of Asa Coleman Chinn (cropping at right). The original photo can be accessed through the KYDVL and identifies 123 West Main Street as being the home of the Phoenix & Third National Bank.

Compare the old picture with the picture at the top of this post – you can see some of the architectural features peeking through. Sure, 123 W. Main will never again look like it did during the Roaring Twenties – but we will remain hopeful that some of the historical features that remain will be incorporated into the new design.

This beautiful bank was erected in 1907 after the Quinn House was demolished in 1906. The photograph of the Quinn House (at left) is from the Waller Bullock collection.